Need help why ingtion switch isnt starting the motor but bypass to starter relay it cranks over no f

Discussion in 'General Ranchero Help' started by Danberg1, Sep 27, 2020.

  1. Danberg1

    Danberg1 In Second Gear

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    ok fellows i just picked up a 77 ford rancheo gt for parts to fix my 79 ford ranchero the problem im having is the ingtion switch on 77 dont turn so i changed it out with a different one unknow if the switch before worked so this 77 apparently has a 351 w in it so i was trying see if motor was any good first few times i poured gas down carb and it started on gas in carb by using starter relay but now i can get it to crank over but not starting i checked number one spark plig wire to see if spark no spark any ideas also my other problem is i have a 351 m that belongs in the 79 ford rancheo i pulled it out of a 77 ford f150 4x4 i guess oil pan set up is wrong so im searching for a correct front sump oil pan and pick up assy please help
     
  2. 72GTVA

    72GTVA Administrator Staff Member

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    Does it have the correct solenoid switch?

    Do you have a red/green stripe wire AND a red/blue stripe wire at the solenoid switch?
     
  3. Danberg1

    Danberg1 In Second Gear

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    What is solenoid switch
     
  4. 72GTVA

    72GTVA Administrator Staff Member

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    The Solenoid switch provides power to the starter and ignition, for the starter it is a large high amperage relay, and is located on the passenger side fender apron under the hood, just in back of the battery. It looks like this:

    iu-10.jpeg

    Installation in the car will resemble this:

    iu-11.jpeg
     
  5. Danberg1

    Danberg1 In Second Gear

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    I will look i can get motor to crank by using screw driver on solenoid and got it running then now it just cranks but no spark i just want get motor running to see if its worth saving putting into my 79 ranchero instead of 351 m that im having trouble finding a front sum oil pan and oil pick up tube
     
  6. Danberg1

    Danberg1 In Second Gear

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    im going be parting out 77 gt
     
  7. Danberg1

    Danberg1 In Second Gear

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    Update i finally got it running on its own put a new fuel pump and made a make shift gas tank but it still wont start w key u have to jump it but will shut off w key turned off
     
  8. Danberg1

    Danberg1 In Second Gear

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    Now gotta figure out how to fix starting problem with turning key
     
  9. Danberg1

    Danberg1 In Second Gear

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    Also when turning key no lights come on dash even the gauge dont work when its running like oil pressure gauge amp gauge temp gauge
     
  10. handy_andy_cv64

    handy_andy_cv64 In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

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    I'd say the ignition electrical switch is bad. I had mine go to crap even though it was only about five years old due to moisture in the cabin (it rains in Western Washington, go figure), and the junkyard one I got had a problem staying in the RUN position, so I took both apart, cleaned the best parts and slapped them together, the switch now works correctly. Anyway, the 77-79 cars aren't wired for using the "I" terminal, so that's why I think it's a bad switch, as both RUN and START positions on the switch power the Duraspark.
     
  11. Danberg1

    Danberg1 In Second Gear

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    Where would that part be at im newbie on ranchero
     
  12. 1979 RANCHERO GT

    1979 RANCHERO GT In Maximum Overdrive

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    On top of the steering column behind the instrument cluster which must be removed to access the switch. Be very careful with the cluster as the white housing is very brittle and hard to find replacements for. There is a process to have the switch properly adjusted when installing.
     
  13. Danberg1

    Danberg1 In Second Gear

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    Can u tell me the process please
     
  14. 65restomod

    65restomod In Overdrive BRONZE MEMBER

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    Did any one suggest a neutral safety switch? I know the dash light do not come on but................. plus as Andy said ignition switch ( maybe out of adustment)
     
  15. handy_andy_cv64

    handy_andy_cv64 In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

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    It would be on the column, next to the firewall, in the green switch, if it has a neutral safety feature.

    Okay, Danberg, I'll walk you through it. Takes a bit of doing, but sometimes it's the hard work that's the most rewarding.
    You'll need a Phillips #2 screwdriver, preferably with as long a shank as you can find, plus a stubby #2 for a couple trouble-to-reach screws, a 1/4" drive ratchet, 1" long extension and 7/16" socket for the switch mounting.
    First off, you'll need to chock the wheels, as you'll be moving the shifter lever down to '1' so that you have clearance to remove the cluster.
    Find only the screws on the bottom of the cluster trim panel and remove them, then remove the top screws and remove the panel.
    Now remove the three screws holding the vent register, to the left of the cluster, and remove the vent.
    Go underneath the car, and where the speedometer cable is inserted into the transmission rear housing, on the driver's side, put a drain pan underneath and unbolt/remove the hold down (do not lose that, they're just about impossible to find) then pull the end of the cable out. This will allow you to pull the cable partway into the cabin when you go to disconnect it from the speedometer.
    Now, back in the car, remove the four corner screws that hold the cluster to the dashboard. Do not remove the tiny screws that hold the cluster together, about 7 or 8 of those. Just remove the four screws at each corner, then gently pull the cluster forward until you can slip your hand in behind to the cable. To disengage the cable from the speedometer, find the thick tab on one side and squeeze it and the opposite side, and slide the cable off.
    Once that's done, depending on if you have the standard cluster or deluxe gauge cluster, disconnect the cluster from the harness. One will be plugged directly into the back; just hold it on each end between your thumb and forefinger and squeeze hard to unlock it. Then, if it has the deluxe gauges, there will be a separate connector that is in the harness, disconnect that and remove the cluster.
    The duct behind the cluster has a spring clip on the top, right hand end. Use needle nose pliers to remove the clip by pulling straight up. Then remove the duct.
    You'll now see the ignition electrical switch on top of the column. Put the shifter back into 'P' and turn the key to 'OFF-LOCK.' Remove the two 7/16" nuts holding the switch in place, and pick the switch up off the mounts and actuator rod, and look at the bottom. There is an oblong slot that allows the actuator rod to move the inner slider. With the switch unbolted, you can manually move the slider. Verify that the slider moves, and manually try to start/crank the engine. Remember, shifter in 'P' before doing this. A small screwdriver will help you move the slider. Verify the switch is in the OFF-LOCK position, then place the switch so that it properly engages the actuator rod. Put the two nuts on, tighten them, then verify that the engine does or does not crank.
    If it doesn't crank, take a 12 volt test light, find the red with blue stripe wire, and put the probe tip in where that red with blue stripe wire is, try to crank the engine. If the test light lights up, the switch is good. If no light, replace the switch.
     
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  16. Danberg1

    Danberg1 In Second Gear

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    Ok will try tackle it btw if u know anyone looking for ranchero parts i got a parts truck
     
  17. Danberg1

    Danberg1 In Second Gear

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    Heres a dumb question i changed out the key tumber due to bad key and my boy was playing w a screw driver in the hole could it possibly be the key tumbler out of place in the coulm ?
     
  18. Curtis

    Curtis In Second Gear

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    Location:
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    Where you from Danberg1?
     
  19. Danberg1

    Danberg1 In Second Gear

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    Orem ut
     
  20. Curtis

    Curtis In Second Gear

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    Location:
    Western ,KY
    Thought you might be near me. I'm in Ky. I need a hood for a 77.
     

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