Has anyone a clue what to do ? I already spend a lot of money on a not fitting/working brake booster conversion kit for my 72 Chero. It all started with the change of disks , brake pads and brake cylinders. The brake pedal came back slowly.When braking hard, there was a delay of 2 seconds until wheels got free again.Workshop asked me to get a new brake booster. As there is no supplier for this brake booster , i bought a complete conversion kit through ebay.Bad idea........the workshop had problems to install it, as it doesn't seem to be for a 72 Chero.Then they found out that it is not even working.Pedal movement only 1/4", then the pedal gets hard and there is almost no brake power. Workshop says that they build it back to the original system.But then i have again the problem with the delay. I will definitely need a brake booster - or a wonder....... Couldn't find any help or info on google. Can anyone help ? This is a nightmare.... Thanks Ilja
Is your shop certain that the booster is at fault? Did they verify that the check valve operates properly? Is there a rebuild service in Germany? Here is a US-based rebuild/return service. I don't know if they will ship direct to Germany, but maybe you could use an intermediary: https://harmonclassicbrakes.com/rebuild-and-return/
The check valve is the one that is attached to the booster housing (with the vacuum tubing ) ? I dont think this valve can cause the symptoms.
found this one.Although it looks exacly like mine, they say its a conversion kit for converting non booster to booster.
The conversion may, or may not, be bolt-in. The problem is that the parts they use are from Eighties/early Nineties Ford's, and unless there are parts that had the exact same stud spacing, it becomes a headache. But, converting non-power to power brakes (with both sets of parts for your rig) requires no changes in anything, as it all fits the same five holes. The only difference is the pushrod, and the pedal itself.
There should nothing inside the booster that would keep the brake pedal from returning. Have you yourself driven the car? Is it actually the brake pedal not physically returning ti the up position? or is it the brakes are not releasing? If it is the brakes not releasing it could be faulty brake hoses not letting the pressure return to the master cylinder
Sounds like the shop is trying to cover their tracks. I would take it to a different shop for a second opinion.
They even changed the brake hoses. My opinion is: if you change a complete brake system, except the last part in the chain( the booster), then why blame this last part, if something is wrong ? I question my self, why a brake booster should be at fault, when it worked until the day they changed the rest of the brake. How ever - i tested the booster on the table.Put a vacuum on it ( vacuum cleaner).The boost function is OK.When i release the rod ( stop braking), it takes about 2 seconds until it comes out fully. But in the car, it only needs to come back a fraction of the whole travel , to release the brakes. Or am I wrong with this ?
Might try this company to rebuild your original unit. I have no rebuild track record with them, but have used a few of their remanufactured parts with no issues. They don't seem to offer any units for sale, but that might be due to how few of them are around. USA based. https://www.cardone.com/
Time for a hydroboost conversion. You can do this yourself (if I did, anyone can). In all, no more expensive than a vacuum booster rebuild and way better brakes. See: http://www.ranchero.us/forum/index.php?threads/75-ranchero-hydroboost-upgrade.28593/
Don't know if all four wheels stick.A test drive doesn' t show this. I should ask the workshop, to check this when the car is on the lifter. But first, they have to get out the non working conversion kit and put in my old booster and master cylinder. About cardone : that was my first try- they can't help.... About another conversion kit : I have no workshop and no garage, I am depending on the men in the workshop, where my car is right now. They charge 100$ per hour, they already charged me hundreds for the useless installation of the first conversion kit. They will charge me hundreds again for the next .........they don't care if it works or not. 100 per hour And there is no other workshop around.
Workshop built it back - old configuration: original booster New master cylinder New hoses 700,-$ Brake pedal doesnt come back fast after hard braking. The guy said - its definitely the booster.there must be a slight damage in the rubber inside.
I think I will try, using another booster and attach it to the original master cylinder. The only thing I need to do is making an adapter plate to change the wrong bolt pattern. Maybe make a new rod from booster to pedal. The original rod has a distictive bend downwards.
It does? It should not have *any* bend in it. The rod can be separated from the booster; see if you can find another, on-continent, and install it. It should only be one size, because with a bend, your pedal action doesn't make the M/C go full-stroke, especially if the pedal hits the floor. Something also has occured to me, you may have the wrong pedal arm, which needs to be checked. That wrong pedal arm may not give you the correct pushrod geometry, hence the bent pushrod.
my 1973 squire did the same thing with the rock hard pedal i discovered 2 rear wheel cylinders totally frozen from rust. after i replaced them the brakes worked perfectly.