New Guy: New to me 77 Ranchero

Discussion in 'New Member Welcome Center' started by Doc76251, Sep 17, 2018.

  1. ribald1

    ribald1 Banned PLATINUM MEMBER

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    A person can get lost easily, and the system is so forgiving that it is possible to get out to where Christ lost his shoes before figuring out that you are not on the right track.
     
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  2. Doc76251

    Doc76251 In Third Gear

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    Well I got her finally smooth........ then I ran her out of gas. 4 gallons from the lawn implements later I cruised her up to the local BJ's for some $1.94 go juice. There was a bit of pop and sputter getting her there so whilst filling the tank I added in some timing advance, low and behold she laid rubber in the parking lot!!!!!! The curb idle I set when she was warm (hot) so that was barley opening the throttle, the RPM's are way too high, they are too high at any non "drive" mode, like 2K high. I'm futzing with my fast idle screw but you only get so much time before the choke starts interfering with things. Anybody got any wild ides for slowing her down in Park? Full disclosure I set the air fuel screws while hot for max vacuum while in drive with big rocks under the wheels.

    Cheers,

    Doc
     
    Last edited: Dec 7, 2018
  3. aquartlow

    aquartlow In Maximum Overdrive

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    With the engine running, try spraying some carb cleaner around the base of the carburetor and/or spacer gaskets, any rise or lowering of engine rpm may pinpoint a bad gasket.
     
  4. Doc76251

    Doc76251 In Third Gear

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    Aquartlow, started looking around for vacuum leaks and found a cap that was cracked on the main distro tree. Got a couple hoses that probably need attention. Damn there is a shit ton of oil in some of the vacuum lines tho. That said the throttle RPM's came back down to a mostly reasonable level and are no longer surging so I think I got most of them but still need some new hoses. RPM's at park are around 1300 and drop to 500 when putting it in gear then bounce up to 800 ish. It doesn't mind going into Drive from 1300 but bangs hard into Reverse. Much better than before but I'm still missing something.

    Cheers,
    Doc
     
  5. handy_andy_cv64

    handy_andy_cv64 In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

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    Get all your hoses done, and if you haven't already checked, pull off and plug the booster line. If there's oil in the lines, it might have migrated to the booster. Then go back to the start position and redo your adjustments.
     
  6. Doc76251

    Doc76251 In Third Gear

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    Booster? You mean brake booster? PCV to Carb? Which one? I noticed at low RPM with the car in Drive/Reverse the breather on the port side smokes while the engine idles.

    Cheers,

    Doc
     
  7. handy_andy_cv64

    handy_andy_cv64 In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

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    Yes, the brake booster. But checking if the PCV is stuck open is also a good idea. Just take a scrap piece of cardboard, the size of a matchbook cover, and with the engine running, slap that puppy on the bottom of the valve. If the idle drops considerably, you need a new one; if it doesn't drop at all, you need a new one. A working one should drop the idle 50-100 RPM, so anything above 100 can be considered a leak.
     
  8. Doc76251

    Doc76251 In Third Gear

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    Location:
    Virginia Beach, VA
    Well on Christmas day I got a Christmas present. I ordered a remote start kit for my wife's Rav4 and once I got the critter installed I had 15 min to waste to see if it would shut off on time. Upon recommendation from Test Dummy I checked the coil to diagnose my recent issues of dying while driving more than a mile. In 3 previous attempts I was unable to get the beast started and essentially flooded it out. I Ohm tested both but could not get consistent results. Screw it, poke the new one in. I'll be a sun of a gun it fired up and idled like a dream (YAY!!!! its not the MSD-6A!!!!!!). Now I know why it sounded like a top fuel dragster, it was running a cylinder low but randomly. NOW, I have to re-do the entire carb which I had just gotten my head wrapped around as it idles too fast and I can smell the raw fuel from the exhaust. I'm good with that. I am continually amazed that this thing ran up and down the street when I got it and was able to hit 120 mph (closed course racing conditions you know, wink, wink, nudge, nudge). Still going to replace every hose and vacuum line before I get serious with the carb.

    Merry Christmas to you all!!!

    I think I'm going to write a tech article about my gauge install adventures that have also started but will prove to be epic considering my dismal understanding of auto wiring and limited fab abilities

    Cheers,

    Doc
     
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  9. Doc76251

    Doc76251 In Third Gear

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    178
    Location:
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    Sooooo as an update, I was going through all my vacuum lines swapping them out as I came across them. The issue now is that what I thought was oil is actually brake fluid in the lines. I think I remember that there is supposed to be a check valve in or around the brake booster?!?!? Anyone have any insight into that issue?

    Cheers,

    Doc
     
  10. ForistellFord

    ForistellFord In Maximum Overdrive GOLD MEMBER

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    Off the top of my head, maybe MC leak into the booster, and getting into the booster check valve? Assumes you have power brakes
     
  11. handy_andy_cv64

    handy_andy_cv64 In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

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    Look underneath the M/C; if the paint is gone or totally messed up, the M/C is leaking. Then unbolt the M/C (not the brake lines from the M/C!) from the booster, and you can access the push rod and seal, it'll pull outward. On Babe, when I did the M/C, the rod had rusty crud but the seal 'donut' was still good, so I cleaned it, removed and smoothed all rusty spots, cleaned all rust from the face and center of the booster, and reassembled it with the new M/C and prop valve, and I definitely noticed a difference in braking effort and I stopped losing fluid.
     
  12. Doc76251

    Doc76251 In Third Gear

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    Location:
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    Under the M/C there is grime and gunk but no obvious leaks. The brakes are a bit "squishy" and the idle will drop if you mash the brake. I'm going to "A$$Ume" that the M/C leaks and the booster is contaminated as well as the check valve is blown (yes, power brakes). That said I took her out for a neighborhood cruise and she is idling much better and smoother with the new coil and some new vacuum hoses. Discovered I have no kick down linkage and in regular driving if I want to leave a stop light/sign in first gear I have to put it there. I am able to light the tires for about 10' with only a little throttle up while standing on the brakes, it won't pin you to the seat but it does git. Not ready to take her out for a highway run yet as the only gauge I have is a tachometer. More fun things to sleuth out to get what's laying on the table.

    Cheers,

    Doc
     
  13. ForistellFord

    ForistellFord In Maximum Overdrive GOLD MEMBER

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    I was thinking the MC seal was degraded and fluid was leaking back into the brake booster, not out the bottom of it. The fluid seeping into the booster could find its' way to the check valve maybe?
     
  14. Doc76251

    Doc76251 In Third Gear

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    Location:
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    I may have been way off in my assessment of the fluid. I thought it was brake fluid due to the color. Popped the M/C cover, it aint the same stuff. Now looking at my tranny vacuum line the colors match. So I have tranny fluid in my vacuum lines?!?!? Can the vacuum modulator crap out so bad that it's sucking fluid all the way up? There is a steel line from the tranny connected to the vacuum tree flopping around next to the firewall. The check valve on the brake booster is Dry so no fluid going through. Anybody got a part number for a vacuum modulator for a 77 ish FMX?

    Cheers,

    Doc
     
  15. 1965 Ranchero 66G

    1965 Ranchero 66G In Maximum Overdrive PLATINUM MEMBER

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    Any white smoke from the exhaust. ?
     
  16. Doc76251

    Doc76251 In Third Gear

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    65', No not particularly. That said my exhaust exits under the car in front of the rear axle, but no SeaFoam type exhaust. I have noticed that when at idle in gear (6 - 750 RPM) the breather cap on the drivers side will smoke white.

    Cheers,

    Doc
     
  17. handy_andy_cv64

    handy_andy_cv64 In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

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    I'm not sure of this, but somewhere, somehow, I read the modulators are all one design; the difference is the painted stripe on the body of it, and most times, that paint's long gone. But check ePay, and if nothing, check www.greensalescompany.com, as they deal in obsolete Ford parts.
     
  18. Hillbilly

    Hillbilly In Maximum Overdrive

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    Some of those vacume tree designs can and do let tranny fluid into the entire vacume system, including the brake booster. Not good ! Andy, the basic design for any modulator is similar in function to all the rest. Then the differences pop up. Screw into the case or held in the hole by a springy clamp is the first one. About that paint stripe thing, it made it easy for the assembly person to pick the correct modulator for that particular vehicle and it's intended use. The modulators came with various internal spring pressures to control when shifts occurred = One for high altitudes, another for sea level, still more for the altitudes in between. Still more pre-set modulators to accompany different gearing. Then you have the adjustable modulators, they either have a spring tension adjuster that uses a small flat screw driver or allen wrench inserted into the nipple for the vacume hose connection. Most folks guess at adjusting those but really they are supposed to be set by fluid line pressure measured with a guage from a plugged port on the trans. case. I have only seen detailed color stripe and rod length descriptions in the Factory Ford transmission repair manuals.
    I personally re-route all my Ford's vacume lines so that the trans. modulator line goes directly to the intake. This eliminates the chance of getting trans. fluid into the brake booster and climate control vacume systems. It was common in the past to hear customers raising hell because tranny fluid dripped on their leg after the fluid destroyed the vacume lines in the dash.
     
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  19. Doc76251

    Doc76251 In Third Gear

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    Location:
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    Andy, thanks for the link!!

    Hillbilly, Any guesses as to the difference between green and blue stripe as those are the two I see most often?

    I like the idea of isolating the tranny line to the intake manifold, never knew it was an issue until now. I will have to source a vacuum tee to reduce the 15/32" line to the 9/32" going to the tranny. Since that just about verifies that all of my lines are contaminated I'm going to pull the trigger on getting silicone vacuum lines, there is a kit on Amazon with 10' of 4 different sizes (4, 6, 8 & 12mm) which should cover the whole motor + some. Finding pre-molded vacuum tubes has become problematic unless I want resto or NOS parts which are a bit spendy for a label. Now to figure out which PCV valve I need.......

    Cheers,

    Doc
     
  20. Hillbilly

    Hillbilly In Maximum Overdrive

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    Without the books in front of me I am lost as to what each color stripe means. The closest books I know of are 60 miles away and the owner is on vacation.
     

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