New Guy: New to me 77 Ranchero

Discussion in 'New Member Welcome Center' started by Doc76251, Sep 17, 2018.

  1. handy_andy_cv64

    handy_andy_cv64 In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

    Messages:
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    Everett, WA
    Ah, yes, the "screw-in" types, I forgot about them, but now that you've explained the color stripes a bit further, it is much clearer. As for the adjustable ones, they're adjusted the same as the AOD's TV cable...by a gauge at the line pressure port. Good luck figuring out which one it is....
     
  2. Doc76251

    Doc76251 In Fourth Gear

    Messages:
    346
    Location:
    Virginia Beach, VA
    Well after spending most of the day scouring the internet I think I may have found something......not sure what yet....... regarding Blue vs. Green striped modulators. Pioneer offers two modulators for the FMX,
    The blue one (P# 747005) and lists the adjust ability between 7.5 - 10 (what measurement of adjust ability is still unknown) with an EDA of 1.2 (again no known measurement value or for that matter what EDA stands for)
    The green one (P# 747002) is also 7.5 - 10 but the EDA is 1.71.

    My guess on the adjust ability

    a. Inches of Vacuum
    b. Spring weight in Lbs
    c. Fluid PSI

    My guess is that EDA has to do with the throttle rod that sits behind the modulator and as such could be......

    a. the length of the rod to be used
    b. the amount of travel within the modulator
    c. some other measurement

    Given the above, anybody got any ideas?

    Cheers,

    Doc
     
  3. Doc76251

    Doc76251 In Fourth Gear

    Messages:
    346
    Location:
    Virginia Beach, VA
    So I finally got to swapping out the vacuum modulator as well as blowing out the main vacuum tree and changing all the vacuum lines with blue silicone tubes. Then I got a package in the mail from TD!!!! I got cool clamps that came off a military project vehicle that worked nicely to hold my floppy heater hoses on a bracket I fabbed up from some leftover flat bar. I also spent a bit of time fabbing up some license plate brackets FWD n' AFT as the local LEO stopped by to ask me to stop doing burnouts in the grocery store parking lot, or at least only do one at a time. Then he mentioned that my plates didn't match my address/name and I might want to fix that or he might have to "stop" me (I never bothered to swap plates from the PO). I still need to source a 3/8" X 1/4" X 3/8" vacuum tee to get the tranny vacuum line onto the manifold vacuum line as opposed to the tree. Looking at the pic, I'm thinking I really need to get some fresh paint on the fender wells and clean up the wiring. Right now it's too damn cold to shoot paint so I will put that off for a bit.

    [​IMG]

    Thanks again TD!!!!

    Cheers,

    Doc
     
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  4. handy_andy_cv64

    handy_andy_cv64 In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

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    Look at the j/y for cars with lots of options. The rear tree on mine has five or six connections of two different sizes, so if you can find carbed Ford intakes, you should be able to hunt up a used one that'll fit the bill. I thought I had posted a pic on the vacuumine work on Babe, but it's not in the thread, and I didn't see it on my phone. I'll go snap a new pic in a short while.
     
  5. Doc76251

    Doc76251 In Fourth Gear

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    When I said blowing out the vacuum tree I meant with brake cleaner :p
     
  6. handy_andy_cv64

    handy_andy_cv64 In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

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    Uh...oh, OK....:confused:
     
  7. Doc76251

    Doc76251 In Fourth Gear

    Messages:
    346
    Location:
    Virginia Beach, VA
    OK so it wasn't a Ranchero weekend all though I did manage to get a bit farther ahead on the dash board as well as swap out spark plugs. That said I just got done with a 11 hour 45 minute bilateral head gasket change on my son's 09 Subaru that had been blowing coolant into his oil for a bit now. That even included a lunch break (where I spotted a 77 LTD II sitting in the weeds behind a guys house, CAR PARTS!!!!!) and a run to the parts store as her forgot that coolant in your oil means you need oil and a new filter. The best part is that a buddy bet him $200 that we couldn't do it in 24 hours let alone under 12 so now I got an extra $100 Ranchero bux :D. Damn I'm tired. Subbies have a really weird torque spec for head bolts, "rotate each bolt in order 80 - 90* and then rotate them an additional 80 - 90* not to exceed 180*". Only broke one ratchet, of course it cost my son his pinky fingernail when it let go. The job isn't successful till someone is bleeding.

    Cheers,

    Doc
     
  8. handy_andy_cv64

    handy_andy_cv64 In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

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    Yeah, damned engineers, coming up with crap to hassle us. Subaru, AFAIK, are the only engines that require TTY in two steps, up to 180* turn.
     
  9. colnago

    colnago In Overdrive

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    Location:
    Ridgecrest, CA
    I asked a mechanic buddy his opinion on Subarus. He said they were pretty good cars, but they were a PITA to work on, because it was hard to get to anything.

    Joseph
     
  10. Doc76251

    Doc76251 In Fourth Gear

    Messages:
    346
    Location:
    Virginia Beach, VA
    I can confidently say that I know more about EJ25 series motors and their variations than I know about my Ranchero as I have torn down an EJ251 that my son roasted the main bearings on (did not listen to Dad and check the oil every week or so with a new to him car) , swapped a 251 for a 253 and then found out I needed the upper half of the 251 to make the new motor work, did that in one weekend. Blown head gasket/water pump/ idler pully on another 253, new to him car. And this past weekend a bilateral head gasket swap on another new to him 253. Oh, that and wrenching on all his other Subby buddies cars when they get in over their heads (or need good tools). I hold the line at Tranny's tho, did a complete top end swap for one of his buddies and he said something about the trans slipping. I looked right at him and said "You need to find a mechanic." I've never learned about them, never been inside one and I ain't gonna start now.

    Cheers,

    Doc
     
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  11. Doc76251

    Doc76251 In Fourth Gear

    Messages:
    346
    Location:
    Virginia Beach, VA
    Well it was 60*F today and after church I got some time to work on Midnight. Found my timing mark, way down in the bottom of a hole, away from all the other holes.You have to step back, stand on one foot and hold your tongue just right to see it. The big event today was the dash board install. Yay I got gauges again! I'm doing a write up on it so stay tuned for that. Bumped the timing up so that she quits back firing but I'm still having trouble with the idle. It likes to sit at about 1500 RPM but occasionally I will get it to settle down to 1K - 900 ish where it's lumpy. Drop it into gear and she goes to about 500-600. From there she goes but does not like a little bit of throttle, if you just nudge the gas it hesitates, keeps running but goes flat I guess is the best way to describe it. If you hit it, it GOES! I'm thinking about playing with the carb cams, can anyone tell me what's the difference? I have a whole crap ton of them in the Trick Kit but have no idea about profiles, colors or screw placement?

    Cheers,

    Doc
     
  12. 72GTVA

    72GTVA Administrator Staff Member

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    9,324
    Location:
    Chesapeake, VA
    Refresh my memory - do you know what cam is in it?
     
  13. Doc76251

    Doc76251 In Fourth Gear

    Messages:
    346
    Location:
    Virginia Beach, VA
    Comp Cams 260H, should be pretty mild but its lumpy as hell at 1K. Sounds like a top fuel dragster at 600. Blub, blub, blub, blub, blub.. Braaaapppp
     
  14. 72GTVA

    72GTVA Administrator Staff Member

    Messages:
    9,324
    Location:
    Chesapeake, VA
    Shouldn't be that lumpy... hmmmm. Need to think on it a bit.
     
  15. handy_andy_cv64

    handy_andy_cv64 In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

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    Where are the throttle plates and mixture screws at? Perhaps someone went chasing the idle dragon and has the carb all out of whack?
     
  16. Doc76251

    Doc76251 In Fourth Gear

    Messages:
    346
    Location:
    Virginia Beach, VA
    Secondary plates I adjusted to uncover only a square transfer slot (previous pics tell that tale), mebby a little less. Primary plates, I have no idea, they are where they are. Mixture screws at 1.75 tuns each (vacuum in Dr is about 12 mmHg at best). Curb idle screw just touching when warm. I think the pump is a bit out of adjustment as its loose on the lever but squirts with the slightest touch. Shooter is a 37 with brass horns, up from a 31 plain as I didn't get a 35 in the Trick Kit. Choke advanced 2 notches (to the rear) as it likes to stall out when cold. Fast Idle screw is what it is and maybe could be backed off some. Choke plates open and close w/o restriction. Got brandy new E3 Diamond Fire spark plugs. Wires are Super 8.8's that pass the Ohm test. New Blaster 2 coil.

    I'm missing something in the function of this carb. when cold the idle will fall to 1K then on its own rev back up to 1500 then slowly fall, repeat. When warm I can't consistently get it to idle down to 900 ish, stays happy at 1500. Pumping the brakes used to lower the RPM's but since I fixed all the vacuum leaks that doesn't work.

    When I got the car the carb was way out of whack, but there were other contributing factors. The only thing I haven't checked was fuel pressure as I need an in line gauge and Holley/Russel/Mr. Gasket to the best of my searching doesn't make a double fuel line with a gauge for Street Warrior's w/ 6.75" ish spacing. Not real impressed with Spectra stuff.

    Right now the car is running pretty good, I cruzed it up to Food Lion for a beer run before the sun went down, it was a bit flat with small throttle, scooted when I hit it, idles at 25 MPH (2nd gear), shifted into 1st just to make sure I was there and launched, no tire squeal but it got up and left in a hurry. Didn't stall, sputter, pop or backfire. Car now starts stone cold with a tap of the gas.

    Damn it I'm close but something is missing, I don't understand something.
     
  17. handy_andy_cv64

    handy_andy_cv64 In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

    Messages:
    8,851
    Location:
    Everett, WA
    Does this carb have an auxiliary idle air bleed, like the Demon carbs have? If not, then maybe there's a forced vacuum leak to keep the idle up and not let it lump. I know some racers would drill holes in the primary plates to promote air ingestion without causing lumpy idle and allow the plates to be adjusted to where they belong.
     
  18. aquartlow

    aquartlow In Maximum Overdrive

    Messages:
    1,298
    Location:
    Summerfield Florida
    You should not uncover ANY of the secondary transfer slot on a vacuum secondary carburetor at a curb idle setting, no wonder you can't get the idle RPM's to come down, uncovering the secondary transfer slots also opens the throttle blades. Set the PRIMARY throttle blades to show .020-.025" of the PRIMARY transfer slots, basically they will look like small squares, once there DO NOT TOUCH the curb idle screw that will adjust this setting. For the secondary side, adjust the secondary throttle stop screw(near the secondary vacuum pod) so that the blades just touch(bottom out) the inside of the venturi's. Now using the adjustment screw, add about 1/2-3/4 of an additional turn of the screw to just lift the throttle blades from the venturi bore, this "should" be a good baseline setting to start from. If you adjust the PRIMARY curb idle screw to open the throttle blades for more RPM, you are also increasing the uncovering of the transfer slots, which usually richens the air/fuel mixture without touching the idle mixture screws. The more you open the primaries, the more transfer slot you uncover, which essentially takes away fuel capacity from off-idle to main system "start-up" and can cause a stumble when accelerating due to increased richness(too much) when you add in the "correct" amount of accelerator pump shot. If you adjust pump shot to compensate for this, will usually cause "tail chasing". Too little uncovering of the transfer slots may cause unstable idle and/or return to idle air/fuel ratios(read stumbling) and off-idle lean stumble due to not having the fuel mixture from the transfer slots already flowing in a steady state when the throttle blades are abruptly opened. As far as adjusting the secondary throttle blades, you may be able to remove the short screw and install one that will protrude below the baseplate if there is room underneath the baseplate/carb spacer and/or intake manifold, I did this and allows me to fine tune the idle setting without carb removal(doing this may require clearancing the secondary linkage arm just a bit, but nothing detrimental to the carb's operation). Try the above adjustments and see what your results are and report back, just trying to help if possible.
     
  19. Doc76251

    Doc76251 In Fourth Gear

    Messages:
    346
    Location:
    Virginia Beach, VA
    Ok, lets for the sake of argument assume that I don't know ANYTHING about this carb (won't be far off the truth). Back on page 2 I got under the carb and took pics and the secondary was well into the T-slot, I have an adjustment screw for that and turned it until the T-slot was square, obviously now I should have made the slot disappear. I know how to do that now. How PREZACTLY do I change the settings of the PRIMARY side, I have no adjustment hole/screw on the bottom. Once someone tells me how to do that I need to adjust the Primary blades so that the T-slot is square like I did on the Secondaries. If that is the curb idle screw then I might "A$$uMe" that the Primaries are all the way down and flat as the Curb Idle Screw is barley touching now. When you say venturies are you referring to the 4 holes in the carb or the round things suspended half way down the holes. I'm really not dumb but I do claim to be ignorant of several key words and tricky phrases that weren't used 35 years ago which was my last exposure to a carb'd car and as I recall my buddy was the carb tuner so I let him do it, I built the motor and told him how many CFM I needed for the cam, valves and inches of said motor. Damn I just got the sumbiotch running an now I gotta take it apart again! This is actually the part I enjoy so no sarcasm there, especially if I can learn not only the how's but the why's. Thanks Guy's.

    Cheers,

    Doc
     
  20. handy_andy_cv64

    handy_andy_cv64 In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

    Messages:
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    Location:
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    I'll step aside because, though I know how a carb works insofar as diagnosis, I never learned the nuts and bolts of tuning. So I'll let those who do know, be the ones who do say. But I may chime in from time to time on other issues you may have.
     

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