Discussion in 'General Ranchero Help' started by FordR500GT, Nov 4, 2017.
Filter was 100% gone. I didn't even see pieces in the tank
I remember, but I was going to save it for the GT
If you have a couple of weeks, you can clean out the rust using molasses. Mix 9 parts water to 1 part molasses and fill the tank with the mixture....let it sit for 2 weeks, then pressure wash the inside. It won't remove the varnish, so best to clean that out prior to the molasses. When you're done, you can use the liquid to fertilize your lawn or whatever.
I have a 55 gallon drum of this stuff in my back yard..currently has an upper dash and core support soaking.
I was thinking of using muriatic acid. Dissolves rust particles and varnish without destroying the tank
Muriatic acid will certainly dissolve the rust....along with the steel. It is very aggressive and requires Personal Protective Equipment to handle it safely. I put this stuff in my swimming pool regularly and just a slight wiff of the fumes will burn your lungs. If you go this route, be really careful.
Interesting...i wasn't aware that MA would dissolve varnish. I figured it would require some sort of solvent like methylene chloride (the stuff in commercial carb cleaner), MEK, acetone, etc...
I was wondering about that myself, when I put it in my pool I always try to do it so I'm doing it where the fumes go down wind. That stuff will burn the hair out of your nose.
IMO, I believe I would much rather spend $117 now https://www.ebay.com/itm/Spectra-F4...ash=item542b292a6e:g:lp4AAOSwd3dZZXLk&vxp=mtr
and have a brand new fuel tank to work with that will take corrosion aspect out of the equation. Just sayin'
That becomes the question, "What is my time worth?" Does one do the hard work, put in the sweat equity? Or bite the bullet and buy a replacement tank?
Yeah, it's a good point. That bare steel is going to corrode again unless it's sealed.
There are some places that treat and seal older tanks, but I've never pursued doing that. The last time I had the sender assembly out was to replace the seal on it, and I inspected the tank using a flashlight--no sediment or corrosion. When I go to fix the vent hose and filler problems, I'll drop the tank and take another look.
I know it will dissolve the steel, but it won't totally destroy the tank. I've heard of it dissolving varnish as well. But I already ran acetone through the tank carb and lines a few times.
Don't have money for that
I will put sealer inside the tank. I bought some when I cleaned out a tank that had been outside for 26 years. Tank was still decent
Some radiator shops used to clean gas tanks. May be another solution?
I try to save money if at all possible, in this situation it seems it's money versus aggravation or at least not knowing if all the corrosion is gone and/or dealt with. The last tank I bought replaced a new tank that I installed and let my restoration lag behind, ended up with gunk and corrosion inside a brand new looking tank on the outside. After installing the "brand new" tank, I used our 52K excavator to smash the other tank flat so I wouldn't waste the time in dealing with the corrosion
I have been down that same road. I wasn't trying to spend your money at all(well maybe just a little bit of it ), but really trying to save you any further aggravation with the new tank. I went the "clean and re-install" route and it didn't go well for me or the tank. I had to replace an almost new tank (due to my restoration taking longer than anticipated ) with a brand new one after the attempted cleaning, the "almost new tank" met it's demise under our Terex 225 TXL's excavator tracks (and I would do it again in a heartbeat).
I've heard many stories about re-sealing a tank that later failed, sending gunk to the engine when you least expect it. The guy I bought my car from said he thoroughly cleaned the tank, but who's going to check?? It left me by the side of the road, the filter plugged with rust. Fortunately I was smart enough to buy an extra fuel filter for the trip home from buying the car.
Here's a shot inside the "cleaned" tank, and also the inside of the new tank I bought. I highly recommend scraping up the bucks for a new tank; you won't be sorry.
Yep, If a new tank is available bite the bullet and take one for the team...
I wish they were making them for the '71's
Putting on a bandaid without cleaning the wound or fixing the problem usually always turns out bad.
Hey Dude, take a couple pics of that tank I gave you for the GT, just curious. I took that one to a radiator shop, hot tanked 2X, just curious how it looks, thanx...
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