I would strongly urge you to try some heavier oil, if it has some "issues" that won't fix them, but it would most likely delay or prevent them from getting worse. Ticking after the engine warms up is usually a sign of excessive clearances, showing up due to the thinning of the oil as it heats up. A "thicker" oil (20W50) will help take up some of the clearance and quiet it down, and you would see an increase in pressure to go with it. It's by far the cheapest test you can try, the quickest test to try, and possibly the solution to your problem. Let everybody know the results. P.S. Even a small amount of fuel will dilute (read:thin) your oil (from flooding/running rich) and can have adverse effects.
Start simple and cheap, change the oil and filter and step up the oil as suggested by pmrphil to a 20/50 VR1, the older motors with flat tappets need a zinc additive or it will cause premature wear to the valve train.
The thing is that the heavier oil will likely mask either problem, pump or bearings. That is why I asked for the compression test, and if the problem came on suddenly or has been building up.
I've only driven it one trip this year about 45 miles maybe 50. Last year I believe I put around 75 miles on the truck. it also did the same ticking after it wormed up when stoping at stop signs. As I previously mentioned, i have only put a little over 400 miles on the car in fives plus years. If memory serves me right I remember it doing this same ticking noise 3 years ago but with limited use I guess I forget about it and park it for the season again dumb on my part I realize. Out of sight out of mind and now I'm looking to use it more often and hearing the ticking. It's my fault that I have not done the compression test yet that probly should have been done before i drained the oil. I havnt put the new oil in yet, was letting it drain over night
Darn. That down time would've been the perfect time to do the work to ferret out the problem and fix it.
Another inexpensive idea might be Marvel Mystery Oil or Rislone engine treatment. I've used both in the past with success.
before adding the 20w50 oil im going to add 10w30 oil i have sitting around and a cheap oil filter to check the compression levels and valve train. I feel this is a great first starting idea. I just jumped the gun and drained the oil but that's an easy fix. I may be a couple of day's with results as the doctor app. come first. thanks again to all..
I have Marvel Mystery oil on shelf and will us it after i test the compression & noise possibly in the valve train area. thanks
no good news to add.. just strained the oil that i drained last week and found lots of metal shavings and small metal gritt in oil. Was going to cut open oil filter for further review of contents..I haven't checked oil pressure as of yet,really tight to get around power steering res. to disconnect/connect to top of oil filter to check pressure.. Nor have I ran engine to operating temp. to check cylinder compression due to not wanting to run engine. Plus its so tight along side the shock towers to loosen plugs when engine is hot..really tight and hot..I'm not sure if its shavings from the bearings/Babbitt or cam shaft. Really disappointed, No excuses just haven't had time.
Not trying to dampen spirits, but once metal(shavings/particles) are found inside the oil filter media in ANY discernable amount, it is too late for band-aid fixes. It is rebuild/replacement time, for what you found in the filter is just the tip of the iceberg and all the bearing surfaces within the engine had some of that crap between them and the metal surface they are supposed to protect. Hope you get it straightened out and/or find the source of the metal debris.
Unless it is a bearing failure no metal should get into the bearings. That is why the oil filter is there. It does matter what failed, but if your rings are shot it becomes moot and you need a rebuild anyway so not much point in doing anything else. That is why I recommended the compression test.
