Around $312 for those parts. How much is a 390 rebuild kit through O'Really's? Edit: I attempted to look it up myself, but the website was fouling up and I could not get through to look it up.
Ribald1, from all the records i have, when sold from second owner in 2007, truck had 42,092 on it. And rebuilt at 42,277. On 8/14/09 New tires installed and Styled Rims mileage was 42,945 at sams club. This ranchero was Completely restored inside and out. Basically all my receipts through the years before I purchased, show mileage as it climbs up a little at a time. Very little increase in mileage at all. When i purchased her it was 43,+++ and now it's 44,377so i truly believe as clean as it is it's correct.
for what it's worth guy's you give me hope that there's always help out there even if it 's just conversation that open's up your mind and makes you think. thanks again. John Now i need to go check on the price of a full rebuild kit..
Not to rain on your parade, but needing a rebuild with cylinder and crank cuts at 42K is rather rare. Then to have another rebuild in 1K miles is also rare. To face it again in another 1K miles is getting into the ridiculous. Likely the 42K in o7 had a digit missing, and either the engine was in the hands of incompetents afterward or some odometer work was also done. That is why I have been asking about compression, as that will tell the tale. You have a real nice car. Shenanigans in the past won't take that away. I suspect you will get it all worked out and have an ace.
I'll get to the compression test probably tomorrow or next week No rain here i get it ..the old units were easy to turn back or even purchase and replace unlike today's cars. I figured that someone really push her hard to soon or was incompetent with the rebuild skills.. She's my diamond in the ruff now i'll get her straight
That one pic looked like a piece of a tooth to me. Hard to say. That looks like more metal than simply break in wear and tear. I wouldn't waste my time with more testing. Time for a physical inspection of the internals. Pop that sucker out and start disassembly. It isn't like you are going to keep driving it, right? Time to dive in in my opinion. All of us seem to agree, the indicated mileage is suspiciously low for an engine rebuild. Look at those receipts closely... don't go back to that shop! That's about all they are good for at this point with the amount of time lapsed. I know it goes without saying, but you will need to have that block thoroughly inspected by a reputable shop prior to reassembly. The fact that components failed so quickly (seemingly) is indicative of a problem beyond mere component replacement. You won't know until you are able to inspect everything. For all you know the rebuild shop damaged a single piston while pressing the pins in which caused the need to replace only one mid-rebuild. Perhaps one was dropped on the floor and the skirt cracked? Who knows? Fell off the table? Damaged during ring installation? The only way to know is to look at all the parts and see what you got. Because of this thread I was looking at JEGS and Summit at rotating assemblies for your application and mine... boy have prices gone up! At some point my 289 will need rebuilt, and at a minimum head work to replace what I'm sure are the original valves and seats with hardened ones to handle unleaded fuel, so I am not far behind you on a rebuild.
The mains and rod bearings at the first rebuild were both .010 under, now with the next repair both sizes are at .030 - wasn't just a polish, probably spun a rod bearing (after uglying up the mains first) which may have required resizing the rod (again) and it's very common to damage a piston removing and replacing it on the rod. Hopefully the crank won't need grinding again. The amount of trash in the filter doesn't alarm me in the slightest. The one piece makes my eyebrow raise a bit, but the "gray matter" is normal ring/cylinder wear material, could also be some leftover break-in additive. Spread the pleats in the filter material, and look at the bottom of the pleat. That's a pretty good indicator of what's running through there. Run a magnet up and down through them.
No I have no intentions of driving it whatsoever. I will get to a cold compression test first before pulling. Also was finally contacted by the owner I purchase from this morning in his remembrance, When trying to sell to another individual said if he remembered correctly they spun a bearing driving it home and then returned the car to him. He replaced only parts needed and then decided to sell the car 8 months later but that it ran fine.. He also indicated that he kind of remembers that when they pulled the engine apart it looked as though it had never been rebuilt it looked like all original parts to him and his builder that he worked with. He indicated that maybe the 1st shop that rebuilt the engine infact did not rebuild engine but charged the other owner as though it was rebuilt. He himself indicated that they believed the engine mileage was correct but at this point he doesn't really remember. And last but not least I did look through the pleats on the filter they look basically the same as the edge paper, Not much to speak of I did run a magnet thru some of them. But no metal debris to speak of.
Yeah, just based on that, I concur. When you eventually pop the heads off, you'll need to look at the top of all the cylinders for the amount of ring wear, and to look at the tops of the pistons, look to see if there's a number on them, indicating an overbore of the cylinders.
Receipts don't really mean much. I have built many engines and have a substantial amount of receipts.
