Original Carb for 72 Q code-tag decoding help

Discussion in 'General Ranchero Help' started by dtupper, Oct 17, 2011.

  1. dtupper

    dtupper In First Gear

    Messages:
    9
    Location:
    San Diego
    Hi All,

    Good news for me. The second owner of my 72 "Q" code (my uncle) was able to locate the original carb in a box in his garage. Originally when I asked he said it was long gone. It doesn't look too bad and I would like have it gone through and put it back on.
    Here is the story. The car sat for 15-20 years in a driveway. My dad got it about 6 years ago and got it going and drove it off and on to work. They needed the room, so I inherited it. It sat in my garage for 3 years. I got it going and had carb problems. There was a holley 600 on it and, when I took it off to go through it, I found that the secondaries were being prevented from opening completely due to the spreadbore manifold and squarebore carb. Bought an edelbrock manifold and put on a 650 street avenger holley I had laying around. It seems ok, but I would like to use the original intake as I think that's what makes a cleveland a cleveland.
    Now I have the original carb, but couldnt find the same exact #s anywhere
    My tag says:
    D2PF TA
    F 2D 5

    The info I found here has a number D2PF 9510 TA as a possible #
    I don't have the 9510 part on my tag. I can post pics if needed.
    Any ideas what I have?

    I would like to keep it as original as possible, and have an extremely knowledegable and reputable carb guy that I can take it to. I have heard that once they are set up they work quite well.

    Thanks for any info on the tag, and thoughts about my lucky find. Would you use it if you were me?

    Thanks
     
  2. 1979 RANCHERO GT

    1979 RANCHERO GT In Overdrive

    Messages:
    869
    All Ford carbs are basic number group 9500. Your tag reads tag number D2PF ---- TA. It's Ford part number is D2AZ-9510-N . It's Motorcraft number is CA 885 B It was replaced by D4OZ-9510-F , also no longer serviced. The F designates a design change, 2 is the year 1972, D is the month April, and 5 is the day. Dealing with old Fords it would be wise to check out FordManuals.com . They have the 65-72 Ford Master Parts and the 73-79 Ford Master Parts on computer discs. These are the same pages that the dealers use to look up parts. They have other old Ford manuals also. Find the best carb builder around and have him check it out. It was probably swapped out back in the old days
     
  3. dtupper

    dtupper In First Gear

    Messages:
    9
    Location:
    San Diego
    Wow.
    Thanks for all of the helpful info. I will definitely check out Fordmanuals.com and get the necessary resources.
    If the letter "F" indicates a design change, would that mean that it is/was not the original carb for the car?

    In the past, while talking the carb guy, he indicated that a lot of these carbs had leaks or acted up and were often swapped out by dealers with the old ones just being "stuck under a bench" without really figuring out/fixing the issue. Does that sound right?
    He even told me that long ago someone once gave him a bunch that had been sitting at a dealership for years.
    Thanks for the assistance, I appreciate your efforts and help
     
  4. Hillbilly

    Hillbilly In Maximum Overdrive

    Messages:
    5,188
    Location:
    Winchester, TN.
    Been waiting to see if anyone else remembered why those carbs got swapped for Holleys but so far no takers. Had plenty of them in the past so first hand experience is what I have. The biggest problem area on them is the accelerator pump. There is a replacable rubber on the pump plunger that doesn't like unleaded fuel and really dislikes ethanol. I wore out the threads for the screws that hold the top on in many cases before junking the carb.
    It really sucks when you only get maybe a week of good performance from a rebuild then the accelerator pump quits working again. Buy a spread-bore Holley and be done with the problem. Sorry.
     
  5. ribald1

    ribald1 Banned PLATINUM MEMBER

    Messages:
    19,734
    Location:
    California
    Working OEM carbs is not easy, so the lazy or incomepant will 'shove them under the bench'.
    If you really want the origional carb you are best off learning how to work on it yourself if you want it ro perform.
    An economy edelbrock or holley is a good choice for a bolt on and use aplication. If you want OEM, learn how to work with it unless either you are happy with how it works or have the bucks to have a pro help you with it.
     
  6. billg72469

    billg72469 In Fourth Gear

    Messages:
    485
    Location:
    corona ca
    We are looking to rebuild one of these carbs at the shop and called pony carburator to get a price, at least 600.00. It willl be as good as they say and look brand new, they test the carb on a engine and it will be ready to go out of the box, just don't know if the customer want to pay that much. I have tied to rebuild one on these without any luck, there is a trick to rebuild one of these correctly and if you don't know how you most likly won't get it right. The carb is a spread bore carb and a holley 600 is standard pattern, you will need the correct d2 intake to make the old carb fit.
     
  7. billg72469

    billg72469 In Fourth Gear

    Messages:
    485
    Location:
    corona ca
    dtupper who is the carb guy you know , might give him a call to see about carbs we have at the shop.
     
  8. 1979 RANCHERO GT

    1979 RANCHERO GT In Overdrive

    Messages:
    869
    Design changes on any parts can happen even before the model year is introduced. If the previous owner says thats the original carb, it probably is. My experience with carbs really depends on the builder. Some people will tell you that Holleys are a piece of crap, others will tell you Motorcraft/Autolite are junk and the same with Carter. It really depends on who builds it, if the carb is warped or worn out and if the kit has quality parts in it. The Holley on my 57 has worked flawlessly for 40 years I've had it. The same with the original Ford brands on my Mustangs and 79 Ranchero. Get a manual specific for the carb you have and like Ribald writes, learn how it works.
     
  9. dtupper

    dtupper In First Gear

    Messages:
    9
    Location:
    San Diego
    The guys name is Rick Walker and he is located in El Cajon, Ca. He is a nice guy (if you are nice) and well known around here for really knowing his stuff. He will ask a lot of questions r.e. your set up so it helps to be prepared with that info.
    I could not find much on the internet (he is pretty old school) but this:

    Rick Walker 1347 Teton Drive, El Cajon, Ca 92021, 619 544-8213 pager for Rick; E-mail rickcarb@cox.net Rick does Holley carburetors, restoration, rebuilding, all types including Ford 6V carburetion. Rick has done several Ford 351 Cleveland 6V setups and restorations. Long time San Diego Holley carburetor expert, local circle track engine builder/racer and former local auto parts store owner. He carries a full complement of Holley parts, gaskets etc. needed for restoration and rebuilding Holley carbs. He does outstanding work.

    He is usually quite busy and does stuff from all around the country. When I was there with my neighbor he had a couple of older (50s) strange looking thunderbird carbs he was working on. Rick indicated that they were not too bad but still "not for rookies" : )
    I know the pager number above is still good, not sure about the email.
    Usually I am ok with rebuilding/tuning holleys but this is a different animal, so I am going to try and take my carb to him and see what he thinks, maybe it is beyond help, super expensive or there is a better option. I just thought the original style carb would sort of unique and allow me to still use the original intake. Money may be a factor so we will see. Thanks again for the help
     
  10. burninbush

    burninbush In Maximum Overdrive

    Messages:
    8,259
    Location:
    near SF
    I just thought the original style carb would sort of unique and allow me to still use the original intake. Money may be a factor so we will see. Thanks again for the help >dtupper

    ++++++++++++++++++

    Everybody to their own taste in Rancheros -- but unless you are really into retro parts, I suggest that you keep the Edelbrock manifold and put a modern carb onto it. Hard for me to imagine that the original manifold is better somehow -- except in the quality of being original.
     
  11. john777

    john777 In Fourth Gear

    Messages:
    476
    I bought my 4300D from pony carbs and i have been having problems with it after two years. They have a one year warranty, i think a carb should last much longer. They said they fixed the hot weather percolating problem, not true when i had the car in vegas this summer. fuel all over the place.
     
  12. dtupper

    dtupper In First Gear

    Messages:
    9
    Location:
    San Diego
    Just picked up my carb after having it completely rebuilt. (he even converted it to a well hidden and grounded electric choke, while still leaving the other stuff on it so it looks right) I will need to switch back to the stock intake manifold before I put it on so it might be after the weekend. Luckily it was in pretty good shape to start with. It appears that whoever messed with it back in the day, had tried to switch it to a manual choke for some reason and a few threads were stripped in the lower half. (He said he often has to helicoil a lot of stripped threads in these as the material is quite soft) Maybe that is why the original owner took it off. Anyway it looks great and I will let you know how it works once I get it on.

    As an aside, when I asked Rick about the D2PF tag # he told me that the "P" is for passenger car, i.e. Torino, Falcon, etc. and a "Z" denotes it came from a mustang. "U" is Bronco and so on.

    Interestingly he also mentioned that my aircleaner would fit correctly now. When I asked, he said the Motorcraft carbs had a 4 1/8" diameter top gasket/opening and Holleys were 4 1/4". Kind of interesting item I didn't know about.
     

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