Overheating.... Sorta

OK.
It is physically impossible to move a quantity of air through an automobile radiator at a rate that would consume 10HP. Air pressure in front of the fan would fall to the point that resistance could not increase (essentially drawing a vacuum that the fan would end up running in).
A fans power usage increases until it is trying to pull more air than is available to it, then power usage actually drops slightly with increased RPM

 

That was interesting.
I guess header temps don't have an effect on HP on a dyno anymore.
Learn something new every day.
I wonder how it would work if the headers were wrapped?
I work with commercial fans all the time. Many different kinds.
Another question. As an electric fan usually uses less than 1HP, just take the motor off of that fan and hook to the engine. Changing the engine doesn't change how much power it uses. Why hasn't some fan manufacturer just made an electric fan blade to mount on an engine and create 20+ 'free' HP?
Actually, you know why.

 

Thinking this ridiculous situation through more I suspect that the culprit is differences in air flow across the top of the open carburetor.

Either that or the laws of physics and fluid dynamics need to be repealed.

 

Unless I missed something, if you pulled the radiator hose off (Top hose) where it connects to the block, that should be the thermostat cover, if you cant see or feel anything inside of that housing then your thermostat is most probably not there, if that's the case just put one in.

 

I made a mistake, it wasn't Car Craft (or Flex-a-lite) doing the testing. It was actually Westech Performance that did the testing for Car Craft, not that this in itself made a difference other than possibly being a more reliable and/or having more accurate test results that Car Craft published. I guess since they posted their results to the public that there are some fan designs that rob more than 30 hp, their dynamometer and/or their testing parameters are now suspect by at least one person.
I do agree that back to back dyno tests on the exact same engine with the exact same parameters can yield different results but they are usually in a very small "window", like 1-2% in most instances(but these results depend on many factors including but not limited to operator thoroughness and quality/accuracy of the dynamometer itself). The test results effectively squashes the "3hp loss at 9000 rpm theory", but it will be argued otherwise, SSDD as far as I'm concerned.

 

That's the same video I saw lol

 

Yeah I was blind I looked again and saw it I got a new 192 tstat I'll replace it in the morning

 

Well replaced the tstat still running hot I'm out of ideas

 

Only thing I can think of would be the fan or my water pump starting to go bad but I'm not leaking any fluid

 

Running hot only at idle, and not otherwise, is going to be a fan or timing issue (ignition or valve timing).
What is you timing set at? Check it with the vacuum advance disconnected and plugged.
A restricted exhaust can cause overheating, but it would run very poorly at speed.
What is your vacuum at idle?

 

No clue I was running retarted when I got back a couple weeks ago so I advanced the timing I didn't have the vacuum advance out or plugged I had a timing light but as I hooked it up I soon realized that I don't have graduations on my hat mimic balancer I did it all by ear any tips??

 

But i never started running hot until after that
So that could explain it

 

I could also use a carb tune if my mix is off couldn't that cause overheating?

 

Clean your balancer and find the marks. They are there.
Timing set so the engine sounds best is going to be very wrong.
The vacuum advance has to be disconnected and plugged when setting idle timing.

 

I don't have graduation marks on it I took photos I would upload them but they are to large they aren't there

 

Unless your damper is aftermarket, those marks are there. The only problem with a factory damper is if the outer ring slipped. But you can find where the marks should be by rolling the engine to where the #1 piston is at TDC. Pull the spark plug, use a length of wire, manually bar the engine until the piston is all the way up. Then wire brush the area, the marks should be there. If they are not, then the outer ring is slipped.

 

Except for the Chinese imitations (they have stickers and running without a damper is a better idea than using one of those), they all have marks.
Sometimes you run across one where a previous person thought painting it was a good idea, but under the paint, there are marks.

 

Even after painting, the big groove TDC should stand out.

 

CK back later, Bristol night race getting ready to start.