Just finished the interior and paint. When i started on her 2.5 years ago, she ran fine. I believe she has a 400ci engine. Intake %s are D2AE 9425 BA. Here are photos: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1Vu_X84WZm0fkEi4m__PEeVq9HVP8-BQc Here is my problem in brief. Ran her for first 2 hours in 2.5 years in very hot weather. She was warm indeed. Heading home she began to stall out going 55mph. I coasted into gas station, topped her off with new fuel (11 gallons) and cleaned the fuel filters. They were a little rusty, but ive seen much worse. Verified the manual fuel pump was working and fuel pressure was reaching the 2 barrel carb that was serviced 2.5 years ago. She will start up for 10 to 15 seconds and stall out. I replaced the coil with the right ngk and all the rotten old wires. Ignition seems fine. So unless a manual fuel pump can work intermittently then my only other option is some type of carb issue? Should i just buy a new carb? If so, i just want affordable reliability that comes properly configured out of the box. I dont know what all those screws do or what rich or lean feels like. Unfortunately my Ford guy died 4 months ago and i feel pretty helpless without him. And suggestions would be appreciated. Brian
Some of the 2 barrel carbs had a filter right on the carb itself where the fuel line attaches. Or the needle and seat in the carb is slightly stuck, or has trash in it.
Back when I didn't know a thing about carbs, I bought a remanufactured 2150 carb from Rockauto that basically was plug and play, aside from transfering a few parts from my old leaky carb to the new one. Then I rebuilt my old one and found out that working on these things is pretty easy. From the pictures it looks like you have a 2100? As pmrphil said, it could be a filter issue or an internal carb issue, or perhaps your choke needs readjusting. Pretty straight forward stuff.
Also....Since it dies when it get's hot/warm, verify it isn't the fender mounted ignition module as being the culprit. The symptoms you describe are along the same lines as ignition module malfunctions.
First, determine whether the problem is fuel or spark. As aquartlow says, the ignition modules are prone to fail when hot. I carry a spare but also have "revived" one quicker by pouring water onto the case to cool it off.
Okay... update. The carb seems to be a D30F-EA built by Motorcraft. I verified that the fuel is filling up in the bowl and that the float doesnt take on fluid. It has been repaired though. Ignition is fine. Timing hasnt been touched. Therefore i have nothing left except to rebuild the carb properly. Looks like the carb i have is called a "2150". It is missing the float assist spring but that shouldnt be a huge deal. Youtube university here i come. Unless one of yall can sell me something i can have confidence in? Brian
It looks like a 2100. The 2150 has a choke pulloff that you don't seem to have, the 2150 has an emission port on top that goes to the fuel vapor canister and has a few more ports on the side for emissions related stuff. Also, that assembly on top of your air horn is not on the 2150. They're interchangeable but you'd have to plug a few ports if you're going with the 2150.
