Project: Iron Mullet

Discussion in 'Ranchero Pics' started by Iron Mullet, Aug 28, 2010.

  1. Iron Mullet

    Iron Mullet In Third Gear

    Messages:
    156
    Location:
    Central Florida
    Thanks, Dan. Filling the wheel wells was what I wanted; I was not a fan of those little tires on the 14" chrome rims. I was worried about rubbing once I got the tires and put them beside the car, but decided to give them a shot. Luckily, I have not had any rubbing at all. The smallest clearance is at the rearmost point of the front wheels, and is about an inch. All four tires are the same size. These tires are relatively cheap at $75 from Walmart. Despite what you may read, they are also available elsewhere for about the same price.

    Edit: I just took another look at your Montego, what a great looking car. It's hard to say anything would be better than what you have done there, but some slightly larger tires would look pretty tough. I am reluctant to recommend anything, but it may be the safe bet to go down a size in width or sidewall from the 235/75-15 size I used for a little insurance.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 9, 2010
  2. 1979 RANCHERO GT

    1979 RANCHERO GT In Overdrive

    Messages:
    977
    15 inch wheels shouldn't be a problem with tire rubbing with Rancheros unless the tire gets to big. Cougar/TBirds came factory equiped with 15 inch wheels. Why Ford did not use 15 inch on Rancheros will probably always be a mystery unless 14 inch wheels saved them pennies.
     
  3. Iron Mullet

    Iron Mullet In Third Gear

    Messages:
    156
    Location:
    Central Florida
    Good catch! I did make a style choice by mounting the OWL to the inside...
     
  4. Dan the ranchero man

    Dan the ranchero man MODERATOR Staff Member

    Messages:
    4,080
    Location:
    Mchenry , IL
    Thanks for the feedback (I don't want to hyjack your thread just want to make a point) I have had a few (and I agree a bit myself) people say that with mine sitting up so high it would look better with a bit more wheel/tire sitting in those wheel wells. I have 15 wheels on my 74 ranchero but the tires are nowhere near that big. That is why I asked. Thanks again Dan
     
  5. Drifterr

    Drifterr In Second Gear

    Messages:
    80
    Location:
    Seven Persons, Ab.
    They used 14" wheels in the mustangs of those years too. I don't know why some cars had 14s and others had 15s no real rhyme or reason that I know of.
     
  6. Iron Mullet

    Iron Mullet In Third Gear

    Messages:
    156
    Location:
    Central Florida
    No problem, Dan. Glad I could help!

    The 14" original rim size is a little weird, but was easy to find 15" replacements. For those whom are interested, these 5 on 4.5" lug pattern rims came from a late model Crown Vic and a Lincoln Town Car for a whopping $8.50 each at the junkyard.
     
  7. Iron Mullet

    Iron Mullet In Third Gear

    Messages:
    156
    Location:
    Central Florida
    The Iron Mullet has clocked more than 1300 hundred miles since July. The fuel tank is holding up great and the engine just passed another compression test with similar results to the test that followed the top end work.

    I finally sourced the driver's side front turn signal. They're out there, I just waited for an inexpensive one to come along in decent condition. I have a total of $50 in both signals with shipping. Not cheap, but not terrible for something NLA.

    I also replaced the low beam headlights and rebuilt the carburetor... again. I didn't quite figure out the choke setting the first time around, but I think I've got it now. I'm still a little concerned with the idle fuel mixture screws; both are about 3.5 turns out. Maybe that's about right, but it seems too far from the 1.5 turns beginning setting. If anybody has an opinion on it, its a Motorcraft 2150 on a tired 351 Windsor with a fresh carb kit. With the big tires, I am now averaging 10 to 11 MPG.

    The biggest development in the last month is related to the intended purpose for the Iron Mullet. As previously mentioned, I hope to do some towing with this beast, and plan to start by hauling a 1967 VW bus across Central Florida. I would also like to haul off the 71 VW camper you may have noticed in some of these pictures. Doing all of this will require a car trailer, which I have... sorta. It needs new axles, brakes, ramps, and fenders. I've got the brake axles complete with new suspension on hand, and need to flip the trailer to do the work. Hmmm. I've always wanted to build a gantry crane...

    Done!
    [​IMG]

    This was the first tool I've built that needed a temporary structure to assemble. It collapses down to a height of 79 1/4" to roll through the 80" garage door opening. It is raised to 13 feet high in the picture, and can go higher if needed. The hoist is about 100 years old, and performed well with the geared trolley. Hard to justify all this, but was a blast to build and use. It's also an entertaining way to lower the Thanksgiving turkey into the fryer...

    Merry Christmas!
     
    cubevandude likes this.
  8. ribald1

    ribald1 Banned PLATINUM MEMBER

    Messages:
    19,727
    Location:
    California
    Good job!.......
     
  9. 5.0 Chero

    5.0 Chero Bahumbug Staff Member

    Messages:
    14,072
    Location:
    Prunetucky California
    Great Job but a Redneck would have got the job done with a couple of cases of Beer and a 1/2 dozen freinds.
     
  10. billg72469

    billg72469 In Fourth Gear

    Messages:
    485
    Location:
    corona ca
    cool tool , neet when somthing you work on works so well, great job.
     
  11. cesarnitro1

    cesarnitro1 In First Gear

    Messages:
    23
    Location:
    El Paso TX - Mexico
    nice work!!!!! nice job welding!!!!! nice chero.....
     
  12. Iron Mullet

    Iron Mullet In Third Gear

    Messages:
    156
    Location:
    Central Florida
    The Iron Mullet has been holding its own while work continues on the never ending car trailer project. I scrapped a load of metal that had been piling up for a few Ranchero bucks, and couldn't help but notice how relieved the car seemed when we left the scrap yard...

    [​IMG]

    The old Mullet peed a little oil at the sight of this:

    [​IMG]

    The trailer axles were installed in February and ready for a test drive:

    [​IMG]

    Space is a little tight for this 20ft deck, so I made this extension to allow jack knife parking:

    [​IMG]

    It would a terrible idea for pulling the trailer, but in the yard it's like the trailer version of stunt driver parallel parking!
     
  13. 5.0 Chero

    5.0 Chero Bahumbug Staff Member

    Messages:
    14,072
    Location:
    Prunetucky California
    put a receiver on the front and with that extension it would be easy to put it any where you wanted it.;)
     
  14. Iron Mullet

    Iron Mullet In Third Gear

    Messages:
    156
    Location:
    Central Florida
    Good point, 5.0. I've been thinking about building a push bar; something between what you see on police cruisers and the General Lee. Wouldn't be a bad idea to integrate a receiver as you suggest. It's a low priority, but would be a fun way to make this thing uglier!

    -----

    The car trailer remains the focus of my play time, but I did receive a part today and couldn't resist going ahead with the installation.

    Turn Signal Canceling Ring:

    [​IMG]

    Sometimes it is referred to as the Turn Signal Cam, but I think that is the part that actuates this ring. It was $8 at Rock Auto.com

    Anyway, on a scale of 1 to 10, I rate the difficulty of this repair at about a 2. The only catch is the need for a steering wheel puller. That's a great excuse to make one:

    [​IMG]

    For anyone who is interested, the (2) steering wheel bolts are 5/16" x 2" fine thread on 1-3/8" centers. They thread into tapped holes in the steering wheel. The puller's center hole is tapped for the 3/8" draw bolt, which pushes against the steering shaft. Here it is in action:

    [​IMG]

    Here is the offending part behind the replacement:

    [​IMG]

    After seeing how thin the plastic is, it's no wonder those things break!

    One more thing checked off the list.

    There is a headlight switch upgrade in the works, and parts on the way for a rear gear swap. More to come...
     
  15. 5.0 Chero

    5.0 Chero Bahumbug Staff Member

    Messages:
    14,072
    Location:
    Prunetucky California
    You will get more force with less pressure with a fine thread..;):D I have a 2 1/2 inch round one with slots that I use in the yards to pull steering wheels.
     
  16. kingtlp

    kingtlp In Second Gear

    Messages:
    88
    Location:
    Redding Ca
    I did enjoy reading this. Nice job.
     
  17. Iron Mullet

    Iron Mullet In Third Gear

    Messages:
    156
    Location:
    Central Florida
    Thanks, kingtlp! Sharing the details and reading reactions has been enjoyable as well.

    =====

    Several things have happened since the last update, so it's time for another installment.

    The rear gear project took about 6 days altogether. I switched out the original 2.47 gear for a used 3.50 found on ebay. It was a learning experience as usual; I had never rebuilt a differential before, but found it fairly simple with a little patience. The third member received new bearings throughout and a paint job.

    [​IMG]

    Online gear calculators were helpful to make predictions, but the results did not really hit me until the test drive. First impression was that the gear is too big, but I'm getting used to it. It made towing a 3000lb load of gravel in a 5x10 utility trailer into an easy task for the car.

    All the details and member's advice are in the Rear Gear Recommendations thread.

    The headlight switch project was also completed with a new switch, connector, and relays to prevent the failure from happening again.

    [​IMG]

    It is all covered in the Light Switch Connector vs Angry Electrons thread.

    I have been suspicious of possible vacuum leaks for a couple months, so started investigating the hoses and various components. I have little experience with vacuum operated stuff, so there's been a good bit of reading done to guide my sleuth work. The distributor vacuum advance diaphragm had a slight leak, so a replacement was ordered and anxiously installed.

    [​IMG]

    It made a difference, but not as much as was hoped. Investigation continued, and eventually focused on the EGR valve. By this time I had plugged all non-essential stuff like the cruise servo, brake release line, and vent controls. It turned out that the linkage from the EGR vacuum diaphragm to the internal valve had a leaky seal. I order a new valve, but it did not fit. My carb and spacer are apparently from a 76 Torino... in all of that, the parts guy talked me into trying a block off plate, so I gave it a shot. It was easy to make, and installed with some high temp RTV.

    [​IMG]

    After backing off the timing, it runs a lot better now, especially when cold. I'm still not comfortable with this, and after a tank or two of gas and some data gathering I will probably try to source the correct EGR and try that too.

    One other development was completion of the trailer wiring, including a brake controller and finishing up the car side trailer connector. Now I have to re-focus on the trailer, and all will be good!

    [​IMG]
     
  18. Dan the ranchero man

    Dan the ranchero man MODERATOR Staff Member

    Messages:
    4,080
    Location:
    Mchenry , IL
    On the EGR get a plug for the hole in the manifold under the EGR mounting plate, buy a phenolic spacer (1 inch) mount the carb back on and be done with that noise. Those spacers (EGR) are prone to carboning up and melting (causing vacuum leaks and other issues). If you don't have to have it for emission testing remove it and there will be one less thing to worry about failing.
     
  19. Iron Mullet

    Iron Mullet In Third Gear

    Messages:
    156
    Location:
    Central Florida
    Hmmm. I knew about spacers, but haven't heard of the phenolic ones. I'm reading they are good insulators, which may help with a hard start problem I have yet to solve. If the car is hot and sits for 10 minutes or so, it has to crank for a few seconds before it will start. If I try to restart it right away, its starts perfectly. It also starts easy cold. I'm guessing it is vapor lock, but not sure.

    The current spacer has a PCV port. What are the options for retaining proper PCV function?
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Apr 21, 2011
  20. burninbush

    burninbush In Maximum Overdrive

    Messages:
    8,389
    Location:
    near SF
    The current spacer has a PCV port. What are the options for retaining proper PCV function? >Iron

    ++++++++++++++++++++++

    Lots of modern carbs already have a pcv port. Otherwise, it would be simple to drill & tap into a phenolic spacer, or just drill and epoxy a hose barb into it.
     

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