pulling engine and trans

Discussion in 'Ranchero Tech Help' started by keenang, Jul 14, 2015.

  1. keenang

    keenang In Second Gear

    Messages:
    27
    Location:
    milwaukee
    that is infact the same trick ive used on my spitfire when i pulled its engine to rebuild, and when draining my 944 cooling system or any other fluid system, as long as you dont suck it works perfectly.

    now i have run into a rather large or small hiccup depending on what your used to. i may add that if i used some due dilligance i could have avoided this. the po said he rebuilt the c4 in my ranchero ~400 miles before i got it. my trans code is for a c4. so i thought it was safe to assume i had a c4 in the car. not the case. i indeed have the heavy not so strong fmx. i have a stage one rebuild kit for a c4 from oregan performance, and a stage shift kit form trans go for a c4. in my mind i have 2 options, return the rebuild kit and try to sell the shift kit and get a fmx rebuild and shift kit. or (and im leaning towards this option) find a junkyard c4 and rebuild it and swap her in. the first option i see as being straight forward, the second option i have a few questions on. first, are the c4 and fmx the same overall length so i can use the same drive shaft? or would i need it shortened or extended by a driveline shop? Second, would i be able to use the same torque converter or would i need a different one to fit the c4. Third, given that i would make sure to get a later c4 with PND12 instead of the dual range would i need to change any of the shift linkage?
    other than that i have everything disconnected from my engine and marked for where it goes. all that is left is to remove is the starter motor and disconnect speedo cable and shift linkage as well as the drive shaft. it was an average of 96 degrees today with no clouds so work was rather slow and filled with sweat and water breaks. im not to used to this kind of heat here in wisconsin
     
  2. keenang

    keenang In Second Gear

    Messages:
    27
    Location:
    milwaukee
    or could i swap to an AOD?
     
  3. handy_andy_cv64

    handy_andy_cv64 In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

    Messages:
    11,623
    Location:
    Seguin, TX
    The PO probably assumed he rebuilt a C4 instead of an FMX, since my '74 Squire's 351C had a factory FMX. Yeah, you can't trust most people to be right; even I will tell you to double-check me, because I know I don't have all the answers. Anyway, whether you stick with the rebuilt FMX, or change to a C4 or AOD is up to you. I ran into the problem on my '79 that I changed the 351M/FMX to the 351W/C4, I have a speedo mismatch, and had a few other things to deal with. I'd suggest sticking with the FMX for now, and go ahead and begin gathering the parts to do an AOD swap and uprate your 351C.
     
  4. ribald1

    ribald1 Banned PLATINUM MEMBER

    Messages:
    19,727
    Location:
    California
    On engines that have them, like the 385's, that is an option.
    I considered installing one on my 5.0, but looking at it it was clear that two would be required.
    With my 20/20 hindsight activated, it is clear that I should have gone ahead and done it when I had it apart rebuilding it.
     
  5. handy_andy_cv64

    handy_andy_cv64 In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

    Messages:
    11,623
    Location:
    Seguin, TX
    I'd swear the Windsor blocks have drain plugs up near the front of the coolant galleries, same as the 3.8 liter engines.
     
  6. ribald1

    ribald1 Banned PLATINUM MEMBER

    Messages:
    19,727
    Location:
    California
    If there is one, it is well hidden. I have never encountered anyone who has been able to locate it.
    The 385 one is in the rear on the drivers side down by the oil pan.
     
  7. 72GTVA

    72GTVA Administrator Staff Member

    Messages:
    9,862
    Location:
    Chesapeake, VA
    My Clevelands, 351M/400, and 429 SCJ have block drains. Last few builds I put in drain cocks in place of the NPT pipe plugs. Came in handy for flush/drain/fill ops. Not needed now with the miles I put on the older cars but when they were daily drivers it was handy.

    I think even the 5.0 Coyote in the pony has block drains - next time I have the covers off the bottom I'll look again to see.
     
  8. keenang

    keenang In Second Gear

    Messages:
    27
    Location:
    milwaukee
    actually i believe ive set my mind on swapping to the aod. few reasons why, 1 i would like an extra gear, 2 My ex Roomate has a 92 f150 with a good aod that i sold to him and the 5.0 siezed up because he didnt change/add oil (had a front main leak) and he said i could have any parts i wanted off of it if i tow it to a junkyard and give him the scrap metal cash. now its a price game between the fmx rebuild and an aod rebuild plus its necessary accessories like the tv cable, and if i need to shorten the shaft and a new torque converter. i know the aod will be more expensive but if its not too much more i will go ahead and do that. it would just be nice to get a couple more MPG on the freeway.
    and looking at the fmx while disconnecting the kickdown cable and shift linkage i believe i found out why it failed. theres a metal tube coming from the drivers side of the trans case that goes back and just ends with a piece of hose on the end witch looks to have crumbled apart and then another metal tube on the passenger side with remnants of rubber hose on the tip of it. so i believe it was just pissing out fluid and got to low and burnt up the clutches. When it failed there was a few puffs of smoke i noticed coming out of the trans.
     
  9. handy_andy_cv64

    handy_andy_cv64 In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

    Messages:
    11,623
    Location:
    Seguin, TX
    That was the vacuum modulator line; the hose should've been replaced many many moons ago. The vacuum line is not impervious to ATF, and what happened is the diaphragm ruptured, so the engine was sucking up the ATF. Burned trans but reasonably clean engine. That's one of the good things about the AOD--it doesn't use a vacuum modulator. The downside is that the TV cable has to be adjusted to a gnat's @$$ to prevent it from burning up.
     
  10. pdw72

    pdw72 In Maximum Overdrive

    Messages:
    1,271
    Location:
    southeast MN
    That 92 f150 should have an E4OD trans which is all electric control, may not work without a controller.
     
  11. handy_andy_cv64

    handy_andy_cv64 In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

    Messages:
    11,623
    Location:
    Seguin, TX
    Actually, a 4R70W (remember, it has a 5.0), and yes, it would need a controller. Quick way to tell the AOD from the AODE (4R70W) is if there's a TV cable hooked to the throttle quadrant. Yes on cable means AOD.
     
  12. keenang

    keenang In Second Gear

    Messages:
    27
    Location:
    milwaukee
    well you guys are correct on the e4od. checked her out this morning and sure enough there is no tv cable. I will be rebuilding my fmx then. does anyone know of a good fmx rebuild manual either online or one to order? i have a c4 workbench manual but that wont be too much help.
     
  13. Torkair

    Torkair In Maximum Overdrive

    Messages:
    1,078
    Location:
    Tucson, Az
    The FMX and C4 are the same length, the only change you will need to make is to swap the slip yolk that you have for the one that fits the C4, doesn't matter what car or truck you get it from. You will also have to change the forward U joint, a very easy 15 minute job by itself, just make sure you get the correct one. Other than the slip yolk and the U joint everything else is a direct swap.
     
  14. handy_andy_cv64

    handy_andy_cv64 In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

    Messages:
    11,623
    Location:
    Seguin, TX
    I simply found a driveline from a 302/C4 Torino wagon. Easy peasy, lemon squeezy. Check over on Stationwagonforums; there are a few people parting out '72-'79 Ford wagons.
     
  15. keenang

    keenang In Second Gear

    Messages:
    27
    Location:
    milwaukee
    would the torque converter from the fmx work in the c4?
    i should be able to get a driveline from a gold mine of a junkyard. this guy has what seems to be every car from the late fifties to early eighties as long as its not a floor pan im after it seems he has it (thank you wisconsin salt)
     
  16. handy_andy_cv64

    handy_andy_cv64 In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

    Messages:
    11,623
    Location:
    Seguin, TX
    Hell, you probably could get a C4 and driveline at the same time. AFAIK, no, the FMX T/C won't fit (IIRC the drive hubs are different diameters, if not designs). Sell the FMX to part pay for the C4 rebuild.
     

Share This Page