The front seal in my York style 2-cylinder A/C compressor is apparently shot after setting unused for several years. I can pull the electric clutch if I need to but do not think I'll be changing out the seal - if I even knew where to find one. I can get a replacement compressor, either new or rebuilt, but all I have seen are set for R-134A refrigerant. If so, the oil will likely not be compatible with the mineral oil in my original R-12 A/C system. I do not use R-12 anymore, as if I could afford it, but use the propane based alternatives which can be used in either R-12 or R-134A systems. So where to find an R-12 compatible compressor? Or, do I dare dump the oil from a new compressor and refill with mineral oil?
Forgot to mention, my A/C compressor is a NAPA 020013 purchased in 2006. I see where NAPA still sells that compressor. They also sell a front seal kit but I'll have to check and see if it fits this compressor.
Just checked with the local NAPA store. They have no idea if the seal fits this compressor. Well duh. I ordered it anyway since I can take it back if not fitting.
The SEAL should be the same Clark LIKE you stated only differance is the oil ... Mineral R12 PAG 100 or46 134A
Well I rethought this. True enough my original compressor lasted 25 years while this leaking compressor is only 18 years old. Still I should probably cough up more Ranchero bucks and just replace the leaking compressor. It is a mess to have a compressor crap out. Supposed to dismantle and flush out the entire A/C system as I did when the original compressor failed. The flushing caused even more problems!
Got a compressor for $260 from NAPA - the same compressor in my '75 with a front seal leak. Reading the instructions with this new compressor, a 4 Seasons model, I find that it is filled with PAG oil - not compatible with the mineral oil in my A/C system. As I read it, I'm to drain this compressor and refill with 3 oz of mineral oil. Hope this all works. Comes with a 36 month warranty.
Removed to find my leaky compressor was loaded with ester oil, not mineral oil. Oh well, empty and refill once again since that is what will be in my A/C system.
Flush it all out Condenser...you got new hoses...and put a new Dryer... Flush evaporator.. cover your fenders windshield... So the oil blowing out of evaporator doesn't get all over the car
IIRC....and unless I read it wrong.... Clark, weren't you using a cycling switch instead of a POA valve on your evaporator? If so, I don't believe that clutch on the York compressor is gonna like it for long as they were never designed to be cycled on-off-on.....like the newer designed compressors.
The POA substitute has a compressor on/off switch but I have never connected it nor had an evaporator freeze up without it.
Installed the new compressor. This Ranchero now has all new A/C hoses, o-rings, condenser, and compressor. I put my vacuum pump to it yesterday and s***t. Could only pull about 15 inches of vacuum. Started the engine and ran the compressor a few minutes. The vacuum pump could now pull closer to 20 inches of vacuum - not really enough. Shutting off the vacuum pump the system quickly bleed up to zero vacuum. This is disgusting! I figure a bad front seal in this new compressor. I'm now looking for a simple way to pull a vacuum on the system without the compressor - probably with rubber vacuum plugs. Just wish there was an easy way to pull a vacuum on an isolated compressor.
What vacuum pump and Gauges are you using. ?? Did you make sure your vacuum pump and Gauges are in non leaking condition...?? It seems u had the same issue on last compressor?? Vacuum needs done with the compressor. no way around it
Over the years I have acquired a fine set of Robinair A/C equipment to include gauges, hoses, and vacuum pump. I found what I think to be a suitable set of rubber vacuum plugs off of Amazon to I can remove and plug the suction and discharge lines from the compressor. Then I can put my vacuum pump on the system, without the compressor, and check for leaks. Then, today, I ordered a couple of fittings to fit the suction and discharge ports on this new York compressor. The fittings have R-12 ports to connect my vacuum pump and a vacuum gauge. I'll block off the outlet end of these fittings with RTV or some such. That way I should be able to check for compressor front seal leaks while isolated from the A/C system. I have tried those pressurized dye A/C charge cans. Supposed to be easy to find leaks with a UV light. They now run some 15 bucks a can and I had no luck with that finding my original compressor front seal leak - just happen to hear a hissing sound from the front end of the compressor.
Why not PRESSURIZE the system to find the leak, using an air compressor with correct adapters and a spray bottle with soap/water to spray all joints and compressor seals to verify things. Just a thought
I've seen this idea before aquartlow but compressed air, at least mine, is wet air and that cannot be good for the dryer - which I just replaced. I do like a vacuum test. The system should suck down to 20+ inches of Hg and stay there really overnight with the compressor off. The A/C should be evacuated anyway before adding refrigerant. My former boss used to leave a vacuum pump running overnight on his A/C just to be sure all the air was removed.
Put an inline dryer on compressor hose that attaches to A/C system, even if the compressor introduces a small amount of "wet air" into the system, placing a 29-30hg vacuum on the system will remove it. Just opening up a sealed dryer to install it introduces the internals to humidity. Do what you want
Hey aquartlow, with our Front Range, Colorado relative humidity at a whooping 25%, don't see why I'm worried about "wet" compressed air.
