NOT your typical Ranchero project but rather an information source for this EFI Swap on Rusty... I`ll have plenty of questions... This is sort of the continuation of the thread "Rusty Quit Shifting" http://www.ranchero.us/forums/showthread.php?p=212845#post212845 This project started out with 10 weeks as our goal for completion... Hopefully "Rusty" will be ready in time fer our 7th annual Southeastern RancheroUSA Roundup at our new venue the MoonShine Fest in Dawsonville GA Oct. 26 - 28, 2012 5.0 Chero had the Mustang harnesses needed fer this swap, I`m starting today swapping these harnesses on the 1990 Lincoln TownCar motor and transmission from Hillbillys` stash of parts... So ~ Here we GO I may be wrong, BUT ~ As I see it, the Mustang has the throttle body reversed from the T-Car is first on the situations list... The Mustang harness also includes Mass Air Flow, which the T-Car does not have... I will incorporate the knowledge and expertise from our Ranchero USA members willing to help... Thank You, Dennis
And we`ve made progress this morning!!! The T-Car harness is off, HooRay! AND the "new harness" injectors plugged in ~ Pics soon... EDIT: I learnt NOT to drink two pots of coffee before tackling this type of quest
Yeah, two pots will make you spend too much time back behind the shed and cause you to forget where you were at on the wiring. Mustangs do have the upper intake reversed from where it sits on the full size cars. With a little bit of finagling you could run it either direction. For what you want it seems to be better leaving it toward the driver's side and stretching some wires if you have to. Did you get brave yet and remove the upper intake so's to see it all better ?
As promised ~ Pics... The donor= In progress= Mission accomplished, harness off= Follow along here = more pics = http://www.supermotors.net/registry/8893/26185 http://s130.photobucket.com/albums/p265/AnnDennis/Rusty EFI/
Yep. Smeared the nose around real good then spun it around and got the car that hit it with the right rear quarter. It was a super nice old car but there was just too much bent to make it worth repairing. That's what happens when a realestate lady talking on the phone forgets to keep her foot on the brake at a busy intersection in Nashville. Bet it spun her wig around good too.
Asking questions, getting answers is the main reason this is in the tech section... Here goes! Hillbilly said to eliminate the smog devices... 1) The canister purge solenoid wiring is labeled such, do I need to retain this wire and plug fer anything??? 2) And these smog devices here, I can eliminate both of these and the blue check valve, can`t I??? (SMOG Delete is written on these tags I put on)
I ditched all of my smog device plugs and wires. I even pulled them through the firewall opening back to the computer to make room for other wires changed the location on. Meaning I moved some stuff that would be under the hood to under the dash and vise versa. My harness enters on the drivers side above the my master cylinder. I felt is was the easiest way to make the harness length work for me without having to shorten up wires. The other reason is there is no room on the passenger side with the after market AC unit there. My computer actually sits right above my after market AC.
Yessir, some wires are too short, and some are too long... I just read that the injectors firing order is different on this setup so I`m awaiting more info on that... It`s in the book, I saw it... But it didn`t register I`d hafta change firing order? What with 5-0 swap to 5.0 I didn`t figure it was necessary... I thought they were changing it fer another set up... What is it they use to tie all these wires together with??? I think they heat shrink that black wrap also... I need to get a mile of it... I spent an hour removing the wrapping from the right side injector harness to move the throttle body connectors to the left side... I might need to add length, we`ll see... Ain`t nobody told me this is gonna be easy Thanks 66 My computer actually sits right above my after market AC.[/QUOTE] Steve Honnell has his ignition module mounted to a drawer in the glove box in the "Southern CyClone" Mounted with thumb screws soas to remove as needed...
Yessir, this came into play this morning to me through Hillbillys` PM... Information I found is that "the computer will compensate fer this after a couple hours of run time" I`m thinking on re-installing the T-Car harness and go without MAF system... Still in discussion...
Good luck on your swap -- I just finished a swap of a 1991 5.0 into my 1966 Ranchero .. I decided to revert the engine back to carb status. There is a lot of little things about the swap that I have detailed in my blog "East Meets West" on the www.wildaboutcars.com site. Also, they have the complete 1966 Ford service manual on the site for easy access and you can download pages. Check it out. Craig
Also, they have the complete 1966 Ford service manual on the site for easy access and you can download pages. Check it out. Craig[/QUOTE] Thank You Craig I just got the word, GO!!! I`ll continue on ~ They use a "bank fire" system, I can go with either harness... Since I`ve got the time in this Mustang set up, I`ll go with it... I dislike backing up, therefore I stopped...
QUote>>>> As I see it, the Mustang has the throttle body reversed from the T-Car is first on the situations list...<<<<UNQUote As I laid the upper intake where it goes to check plug ins, I find that I`ll need to "stretch" wire to make things work, two outta four plug ins are indeed too short... Having experience in soldering, I`ll add length to accommodate, I`m glad I bought TWO complete harnesses soas to rob plugs & wire... Off to the parts store fer adhesive filled heat shrink tubing... Ain`t nobody told me this is gonna be easy... http://oldfuelinjection.com/?p=7 EDIT; I sure am glad we recycle things, I had a wire harness with plenty of the correct size wire to perform this surgery... :::::ics to follow:::::
Pics as promised:::::::: "Close, BUT No Cigar!" The yellow wire tied to the plugs that gotta go together fer EGR Vavle +/- 12" apart... Bare wire ~ TPS plugs also need attending to, about 2" short of plugging in... Ain`t nobody told me this is gonna be easy
Maybe I'm missing something your saying, but are you using the Mustang harness, and trying to adapt it to fit the Town car upper intake? Because the upper intake will unbolt and spin right around. I can seriously wire up something like that easier then I can type it out on this damn phone. Lay out exactly what you got better to avoid other problems. What year motor. What year engine harness? Auto? Did you get it all from the same car? ( as simple as the wrong 1 of 4 o2 sensor harness's can fry the computer.) What computer? Pin 31 is different between auto and 5 speed and can melt down a 5 speed computer.
Yessir, your input is appreciated... Both 5.0/AOD 90 T-Car motor / AOD (88-91) 88-91 Mustang harness Working on suggestions of trusted folk here ~ I am switching harnesses soas to incorporate the MAF system to the non MAF of the Lincoln... I have Mustang 5.0 wireharness complete with computers.... .......................................................................... I don`t fully understand the "Bank Fire" injector system... Does the entire right or left bank injectors all fire at the same time??? I`m not finding any Technical info on this, explaining it... SEFI is self explanitory... I`ve not cut any wires as yet, I`m still laying out things, investigating all possibilities and asking questions... However, each day I`m getting closer... Dennis
here is a pretty good explanation now this is from an outfit that sells a system that is batch/bank fired Timed vs. Batch Sequential is a bit of a misnomer. Technically, all EFI systems are sequential in that once all cylinders have been injected, the sequence starts from the beginning again. A better term would be timed, implying that the starting and finishing of the injection pulse is timed with the intake valve opening. The idea behind this is to spray fuel only when airflow in the intake runner is established. This is supposed to mix fuel and air better and reduce manifold wall wetting. The other injection strategy is batch fired where several injectors are triggered simultaneously and not timed to the intake valve open period. In effect, the fuel sits in the runner for a short period of time before the valve opens and the airflow carries the mixture into the cylinder. Some people are dismayed that anyone would use the batch fired method however, there were tens of millions of Bosch and Bosch derivative systems sold in the '60s, '70s, and '80s which worked just fine using batch firing. It is a very well proven concept indeed. The SDS is also a batch fired system. The timed concept was developed mainly for tougher emission laws and EPA cycle testing where much of the cycle is run at low rpm and part throttle, where the time available to inject is long and the injector pulse is short.
I don`t fully understand the "Bank Fire" injector system... Does the entire right or left bank injectors all fire at the same time??? >66 ++++++++++++ Yes, that's it -- once per revolution, all injectors on the driver-side fire at the same time, and on the next revolution the pass-side injectors fire. They are not timed to anything -- except the computer counts ignition events to determine when to fire each bank. So, fire one side, 4 sparks later fire the other side, then repeat. Obviously, three of the four injectors on a side will fire at the 'wrong' time, when the intake is closed, but it works anyway. And at higher power requirements, even a sequential setup is going to squirt on a closed valve -- the intake valve is only open for about a third of a complete cycle, while the injector might need to squirt for nearly the whole cycle to get enough fuel in place for the next intake event. The issue with firing order only occurs on a sequential motor, where the computer wants to trim fuel to one bank or other and monitor the effect with that side's oxy sensor. I dunno how severe that problem really is, but lots of people have cars running that way. You can rearrange the injector wires to follow the firing order the computer expects, but that won't solve the trim issue. IMO, you'd be better off with an earlier speed-density computer if you don't intend to modify the motor.
I`m happy now!!! I know about this batch/bank fire injector system, Thank You much!!! Yeah changing the injector firing order is not really an option, iF you want things to work correctly... http://oldfuelinjection.com/index.php?p=92 Explains this... I ain`t gonna change the cam in this motor unless there is a cam problem... From what I read, reprogramming the computer is NOT necessary for my application at this time... I`ve been busy laying out harnesses and getting a good idea of how much I gotta add to these few connectors in order to reach the various components... Not too many at three so far I`ve found need the "wire stretcher" applied...... I bought sealer type heat shrink tubing, Advance and O`Reillys were no help in this chase, the parts guy at Ford hadn`t heard of it, HOWEVER, apparently a local needed some because CarQuest had it in stock... We`re getting closer to "pulling the trigger" (soldering gun) as we discuss this... Thanks, 66
What computer? Pin 31 is different between auto and 5 speed and can melt down a 5 speed computer. .............????????????????????? 5.0 I ain`t gonna fry my computer am I???
