Serpentine belt drive for a 400

Discussion in 'Ranchero Tech Reference & Articles' started by Robbtroy, Feb 14, 2016.

  1. Robbtroy

    Robbtroy In Second Gear

    Messages:
    89
    Location:
    San Angelo, Texas
    Well, after much testing, trying and consideration, I put my hand on the cylinder head, my finger shouted, "hey, what about this hole? "
    IMG_20160813_214852.jpg

    So that became this (for mock up)
    IMG_20160813_214824.jpg

    Then to this....
    IMG_20160813_214144.jpg
    So my thinking is I'll be able to tension up (maybe a heim joint ) and use the in-between material to mount plug wire spacers etc....
     
  2. pmrphil

    pmrphil In Overdrive GOLD MEMBER

    Messages:
    771
    Looks a bit long, might just invite vibration - how about a head bolt with a stud extending from the top? Could fab a mount bracket under a head bolt, but I'd be concerned about the vibration possibilities there, also. Above it won't affect clamp load.
     
  3. Robbtroy

    Robbtroy In Second Gear

    Messages:
    89
    Location:
    San Angelo, Texas
    I have considered using one of the studs that will be holding the aluminum heads on, but that will have to wait as I'm currently doing the head assembly.... I've considered drilling and tapping a spot on the head for a bracket..
     
  4. handy_andy_cv64

    handy_andy_cv64 In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

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    Don't drill and tap. I've seen some badly 'Southern-Engineered' things like this that cracked right into the exhaust runner, water jacket, etc., and one was welded up; the other was just a boat anchor. Both jobs wouldn't have happened if they hadn't done so. I agree with Phil, and I'm sure I've seen factory head bolts w/studs. I'd also take that bar stock, once you figure which way you'll attach it, and hand-hammer it into a flattened U-shape to give it more rigidity and resistance to cracking. That, or use round bar stock instead of square, as the powertrain engineers sometimes do. Cut to longer than needed length, flatten the ends, drill a hole for the alternator's 6mm bolt, and an elongated slot hole for the 7/16ths or 3/8ths stud on the head bolt, and bend them to match.
     
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  5. Hillbilly

    Hillbilly In Maximum Overdrive

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    5,243
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    I resemble that Andy but I have never done a Southern Engineered foopah. Thinking that maybe I have seen a bracket like you described on a Olds 455. Might be easier to modify one of those Brand X brackets if it can be found at a salvage yard. It won't care if it lives on a Ford engine. Would not drill on any heads without seeing a cut up head to know where there is plenty meat in a non-stressed location.
     
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  6. Robbtroy

    Robbtroy In Second Gear

    Messages:
    89
    Location:
    San Angelo, Texas
    Well, I have decided to take the mock up engine off of the stand and start assembly of the real McCoy, So that I would be able to have the real heads/studs etc to put eyes on. After giving the block a good bath (lather, rinse and repeat) I have commenced assembly.
     
    Last edited: Aug 17, 2016
  7. ribald1

    ribald1 Banned PLATINUM MEMBER

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    I would replace a head bolt with a stud and nut.
    ARP sells individual studs for most applications.
     
  8. pmrphil

    pmrphil In Overdrive GOLD MEMBER

    Messages:
    771
    Adding to what Ribald mentioned, studs are available with smaller diameter mounting portions extending from the normal stud length - just like a windage tray mounting stud. Check the website.
     
  9. handy_andy_cv64

    handy_andy_cv64 In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

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    8,138
    Location:
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    Sorry about the finger-pointing, but you know there ain't no such thing as "Yankee Engineering...."
     
  10. handy_andy_cv64

    handy_andy_cv64 In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

    Messages:
    8,138
    Location:
    Everett, WA
    I was in storage today and found a round bar stock brace from my bro's late Lincoln that could fit the bill, but I forgot to grab it to take a pic of it. I'll try to do that tomorrow afternoon and ask Mike to resize it for posting. But it essentially is the brace design you need to use.
     
  11. Hillbilly

    Hillbilly In Maximum Overdrive

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    5,243
    Location:
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    True that Andy ! While there are plenty nicely engineered rigs down here, you can't fathom some of the craptastic stuff that pops up now and then. Simple really is better in the long run. That bracket you found, is it from down around the smog pump ? Might be perfect.
     
  12. Robbtroy

    Robbtroy In Second Gear

    Messages:
    89
    Location:
    San Angelo, Texas
    well, the good news is that all of the fasteners in this engine are from ARP, studs for mains and cylinder heads, the rod bolts and oil pump drive shaft are ARP also.
    cheap insurance.......
     
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  13. handy_andy_cv64

    handy_andy_cv64 In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

    Messages:
    8,138
    Location:
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    It might be; it's about 7 or 8 inches, solid round bar stock, ends flattened and holes drilled. I figured, if the ends were carefully bent to give the proper angles for mount'up without pulling the alternator case backward, that would fit the bill.
     
  14. Robbtroy

    Robbtroy In Second Gear

    Messages:
    89
    Location:
    San Angelo, Texas
    So after some more thought, I
    Cobbled up this bracket, after I had mounted up the cylinder heads for real..... it needs some cleaning up, but was simple to fabricate from my scrap, oops, I mean my stock pile, and it works well. I adapted a stainless eye bolt to interface the two (alt & bracket) and I'm going to use a nyloc nut to secure the adjustment.
    IMG_20160902_203913.jpg IMG_20160902_203919.jpg
     
    Last edited: Sep 2, 2016
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  15. ribald1

    ribald1 Banned PLATINUM MEMBER

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    Novel design.
    I would put a nut on both sides of the bracket on the eyebolt.
     
  16. handy_andy_cv64

    handy_andy_cv64 In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

    Messages:
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    Location:
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    I would just make an L-bracket, and tack a nut to the backside of the vertical piece of the main bracket for a bolt. Otherwise, that is an excellent solution.
     
  17. 5.0 Chero

    5.0 Chero Bahumbug Staff Member

    Messages:
    13,616
    Location:
    Prunetucky California
    Not sure I would want to secure a bracket with the head bolt it may compromise the torque
    Jeep uses a head bolt with a stud I would see if ARP has something similar that will work with the 400 or maybe a longer stud with enough threads to secure the head and bracket with separate nuts
    [​IMG]
     
  18. Robbtroy

    Robbtroy In Second Gear

    Messages:
    89
    Location:
    San Angelo, Texas
    Actually what was hidden from view is the actual nut that has the stud torqued down. I am checking with ARP for a slightly longer stud to use for this position. I will also be putting a nut on the "adjusting" bolt on the back side of the bracket, not only to dampen any movement but to also "set" the adjustment.
    IMG_20160903_095452.jpg
     
  19. Robbtroy

    Robbtroy In Second Gear

    Messages:
    89
    Location:
    San Angelo, Texas
    IMG_20161029_182509.jpg Well guys, Work had me tied up for a bit, but now it has slowed down and I'm turning up the heat on my ole girl again. Started degreasing engine compartment,. Getting ready to dry fit the E4OD (I'll be documenting that installation) and starting the final assembly of the engine including serpentine belt drive. Here's a few photos.. IMG_20161029_175415.jpg IMG_20161029_175436.jpg
     
    Last edited: Oct 29, 2016
    HuevosRanchero likes this.
  20. handy_andy_cv64

    handy_andy_cv64 In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

    Messages:
    8,138
    Location:
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    Somewhere, there's some measurements on the 'Net that tell you just how far back the trans crossmember holes are drilled for installing either an AOD or an E4OD. It keeps you from having to do a dry-fit with the trans. But ask me where I saw them so long ago and I cannot remember.
     

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