Source for floor pans

Discussion in 'General Ranchero Help' started by Boiler92, Dec 16, 2019.

  1. Boiler92

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    Any recommendations on a floor pan supplier? Dearborn? C2C? Mac's? Other?

    I'm gonna need toe boards, front and rear pans both sides for my 69. I'm afraid to order and receive ill fitting pans, far from factory stamping and thickness.

    Thanks.
     
  2. russosborne

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    Not sure about the 69, but the pans available for the 72 and up are exactly what you described as not wanting.
    Your best bet might be to get some from someone parting out a 68/69.
    Good luck.
    Russ
     
  3. PonyExpressRider

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  4. Boiler92

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  5. TestDummy

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  6. Boiler92

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    I've done a little research and I don't think Sherman makes them either. C2C seems actually be a manufacturer and sells through Sherman and I THINK also sells on ebay and Amazon as Motor City Metals.
     
  7. PonyExpressRider

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    I used the left and right rear on mine. I chose to overlap and tack weld them into place. But could have butt welded them as well. looked exactly like what was cut out. I was very pleased with them. Metal thickness, fit... I had no complaints!
     
  8. Boiler92

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    Good to know. Thanks.
     
  9. Rods N Restos

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    AMD makes complete floorpan for the 68-69 Torino/Fairlane.
    There is a middle brace over hump you have to buy separate.
    On a Ranchero your not going to use the far back but can just cut that off.
    You keep your unibody frame rails and the new floor pan attaches over that
     
  10. Boiler92

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    Thanks. I'll look for it. If I go that route will i need to weld in any temp braces to keep things from getting cattywompus once the old floor is cut out or do the frame rails alone provide enough rigidity?
     
  11. Rods N Restos

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  12. Rods N Restos

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    You might need some temp bracing but it might be tricky where to place them as you have to slip floorpan in and over unibody sub frame rail as it goes underneath floor pan so don't think you can slip it in from bottom.
    Might have to remove a door to go in from side.
    I have not done a 66-71 I just know they starting making the 1 piece floor pan and other parts as they started with 66 Fairlane and worked their way up to the 68-69 Torino-Fairlane but the floor is same up to 71 which I was sorta surprised.
    The rocker panels might hold enough strength to keep it square just make sure when you put it up in stands to put jack stands on 4 corners of rockers then check bottom of rocker with a level.
    I have have had to add plywood shims under stands to compensate for uneven concrete floor but you want the vehicle level before cutting it apart and putting it on 4 jack stands will give you access from underneath and above floor pan but strip out your interior before you put it in the stands.
    Also if you can support the front and rear suspension with blocks or stands but still have the initial weight of vehicle supported on the 4 corners of rocker poncho welds so your not getting any sag drone and rear but not supporting it by suspension just taking the stress off the rockers by blocking the front and rear of body
     
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  13. Boiler92

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    All very helpful information. I appreciate it greatly.
     
  14. Rods N Restos

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    You can message me here or even find me on Facebook.
    I've been in Auto Body Industry for 36 yrs,I'm I-CAR Certified in Heavy Collision & Refinishing, been doing Classic Auto Restoration since I started and built custom vehicles and helped a buddy of mine who owned a Race Car chassis shop so I have cut many cars apart both unibody and full frame and have done many floor pan replacement both in sections and 1 piece.

    https://m.facebook.com/Rods-N-Restorations-227678330667315/?

    or message me here and I can send you link to my personal profile
     
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  16. Boiler92

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    Thanks again. I have to finish blasting and painting under the bed first, almost there, then I'll be moving on to the floor pans and may seek your advice then. Much appreciated.
     
  17. Boiler92

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    I think this is the process you described.

     
  18. PonyExpressRider

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    The floor panels from MACs, the entire floor will come in 4 pieces. 2 front and 2 rear. I only had to do the rear, and replaced one at a time. Didn't have to worry about structural integrity issues.
     
  19. Rods N Restos

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    Alot more work piecing it together,
    It's fine if you only need a section or 2 but when you need front and rear pans on both sides your better off with the 1 piece and have a new trans tunnel too and not have a bunch of joints to weld together.

    The rockers as long as they not rusted out are plenty of structure to take out the entire floor.
    I did a one piece front floor on a 66 Chevelle and had to replace a rocker panel first then did the 1 piece floor.
    Now I know it's not exactly the same as a unibody car but biggest thing is support the front and rear as well as Equal size jack stands at 4 corners of rocker pinchwelds.
    Yes the floorpan ties the front and rear subframe together but as long as everything is blocked up and level before removing it will stay that way with front,rear and middle of car supported it won't move
     
  20. Rods N Restos

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    Boiler92,
    I watched that Mustang video and there are things I don't agree with.
    They set the car on 4 Jack stands then measured from floor to bottom of pinchweld.
    Problem with that is almost no concrete floor is perfectly level so using measurements from rocker pinchweld to floor can through the body off into a slight twist.
    If you put it on a steel frame machine deck or had a steel frame table that decks are leveled out and put car on those then you can use measurements from the deck to rocker as those are made from thick steel that has a straight surface.

    On concrete floor I set the 4 jack stands under the 4 corners like in the video then put a long 3-4 ft level on bottom of rocker pinch weld.
    This does 2 things.
    First the straight edge of level will make sure the rocker is not bent as if there is any significant space between rocker bottom and level surface you will see a gap.
    2nd you use the level to shim the jackstands so that the rocker is level front to rear.
    If you have a long enough level you can check side to side but if not just take a measurement from rocker to floor but just to see if the 2 sides are close as we are not banking on floor to be perfectly straight and level.
    If measurements are off more than an inch from rocker to floor after your rocker bottom is set to level you need to put long straight edge on floor to see if there is dips in floor to account for measurements being off.
    I know my floor is far from perfect as when I wet the floor certain areas puddle up and that is where the low areas are so set the car up using a level not tape measure.
    Only use the tape measure to check to see if both fronts and both rears are close to the same if you don't have a level long enough to go across from rocker to rocker and they still can be measuring different but rockers be level as that is due to floor irregularities.

    Other thing I don't totally agree with is leaving the old flange metal on and trimming off the new.
    It's not impossible to weld the flanges,you just drill or punch holes with metal hole punch in flange where it welds to other areas of body and fill the hole in with weld which is called a plug weld.
    Only way I trim them if the floor pan doesn't fit as they are aftermarket and can be a tad wider then original.

    Hope this helps.
    They are correct about supporting front & rear of car but not so it lifts it off the 4 Jack stands on rocker
     

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