Starting on Babe's resto

Discussion in 'The Stable' started by handy_andy_cv64, Mar 25, 2022.

  1. handy_andy_cv64

    handy_andy_cv64 In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

    Messages:
    13,059
    Location:
    Seguin, TX
    So my friend Joe (Landyacht) has a co-worker who worked body repair for thirty years. He has a shop on his property, and he's going to help us start off getting the projects we have done. His '88 Comanche pickup will be first, but Babe will be second, and he'll teach us how to weld, how to knock dents, how to line up panels, etc. So I'll be looking thru the ads to get chunks of '77-'79 Chero body, roof and floor pan.
     
  2. Doc76251

    Doc76251 In Fourth Gear

    Messages:
    451
    Location:
    Virginia Beach, VA
    Looking forward to seeing it come together! Are you doing a serpentine belt? If so I finally have all the numbers and parts for the timing cover, water pump and Ford Accy brackets to make a 95 roller motor fit in a 77 frame and spin the right direction.

    Cheers,

    Doc
     
  3. handy_andy_cv64

    handy_andy_cv64 In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

    Messages:
    13,059
    Location:
    Seguin, TX
    I use the Panther dual multi-rib belt setup, although the A/C compressor and idler pulley are not installed, so no second belt right now. I also used the 1979 timing cover and water pump that were on the '79 351W I put in, although I had to modify the cover so I could install the oil dipstick tube. And the oil pan's a J.C. Whitney chrome special, but it doesn't leak.
     
  4. handy_andy_cv64

    handy_andy_cv64 In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

    Messages:
    13,059
    Location:
    Seguin, TX
    Essentially, it'll be rust clean-up (thanks, Utah), repairing the rust-throughs on the body and floorpan, and replacing the passenger door. If I somehow get any money together and be able to get the Cougar clip and bumper, that'll happen also.
     
  5. handy_andy_cv64

    handy_andy_cv64 In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

    Messages:
    13,059
    Location:
    Seguin, TX
    So, dead stop...Babe's fuel pump just went bad. I thought I had a spare; anyone with a straight six need a pump? The pump appears to be for a 144/170/200/250.
     
  6. 1965 Ranchero 66G

    1965 Ranchero 66G In Maximum Overdrive Unubtanium Member

    Messages:
    3,023
    Location:
    Texas
    when they get old "like us" don't let them get below 1/4 tank and change the fuel filter often.
     
    handy_andy_cv64 and Hillbilly like this.
  7. handy_andy_cv64

    handy_andy_cv64 In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

    Messages:
    13,059
    Location:
    Seguin, TX
    Good advice. I've had the tank down, back a few years ago when I had the engine out, and it was nice and shiny inside. But the rubber hoses and the pump diaphragm (especially since the pump just went bad) could plug the filter.

    Oh, even though the pump and hose at the frame are around twenty years old, the hose at the tank and the hose into the filter are only a few years old.
     
  8. Hillbilly

    Hillbilly In Maximum Overdrive

    Messages:
    6,505
    Location:
    Winchester, TN.
    Just an observation on local Tennessee Fords = Something obviously changed in the fuel blends in the last year, that something has caused the in-tank filter socks to deteriorate with some melting into a closed plug with others shedding sharp little shards able to penetrate in-line filters between the frame fuel line and the fuel pumps. Discovered the little spikey bits holding open the internal check valves in a couple of rebuildable Holley fuel pumps on a couple big blocks from the sixties. Easy fix but with modern crimped shut pumps all you can do is replace the pump. NAPA can get new filter socks to go on the tank pick-up tubes.
     

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