T JAYS PICTURES

Discussion in 'Ranchero Pics' started by andrewok1, Jun 9, 2019.

  1. andrewok1

    andrewok1 In Maximum Overdrive GOLD MEMBER SILVER MEMBER

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    Tee JayIn First Gear
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    I've been trying to post these pictures to try and get some advice on a Mustang II front end (First 3) that was added to my ranchero by a previous owner. Does it look trustworthy? Also any way to tell what year it may have come from in the event I need new parts? The next 2 pictures of a home made frame connector. Hmm?? The last one is of a couple a pad eyes added to the front end which I have no clue what they're for. Any suggestions? Any and all advice or assistance would certainly be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
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  2. RancheroRandy

    RancheroRandy In Overdrive

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    From what I've read and thought about the physics of eliminating the shock towers and the export braces you would be well served by adding a diagonal brace from the front the frame rail tied into the firewall. I thought long and hard about what involved was with these conversions for a previously owned '62 that I wanted to put a 351W in. I wound up just notching the shock towers for more clearance and then sold it, ha! If you look at a lot of the front clip kits out there for Chevy IIs, etc, you will always see them. It's just a matter of thinking about the structural integrity/strength that you are eliminating when putting these M2 kits in. If your vehicle was mine besides adding that brace I would clean-up and add a few more welds/beads to your conversion...with a MIG and not an arc welder that yours looks to have been welded with...but I could be wrong...?
     
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  3. beerbelly

    beerbelly In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

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    That's some sketchy work right there...
     
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  4. pmrphil

    pmrphil In Maximum Overdrive GOLD MEMBER

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    I have Mustang 2 front end in mt 64 Sprint, and if the subframe connectors are installed correctly (welded at both ends AND along the floor) no other bracing is needed. That looks like with quite a bit of welding it would be just fine, although I don't see the front sway bar, which is highly recommended.
     
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  5. TestDummy

    TestDummy In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

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    I probably wouldn't trust the welds, to be honest, and not to be brutal.
     
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  6. Tee Jay

    Tee Jay In First Gear

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    Yeah those welds were my main concern. UGH...….Just means that much more work. Thanks for the advice.
     
  7. Tee Jay

    Tee Jay In First Gear

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    I was wondering about the cross braces. Reckon I'll have to engineer something. Also, Plan on havin a professional welder look at the welds and get their opinion. I may have to cut it off and reweld. I'm beginning to see why the guy put it up for sale.,
     
  8. Tee Jay

    Tee Jay In First Gear

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    Also, any idea what those tabs with the big holes in the front corners of the engine compartment might be?
     
  9. RancheroRandy

    RancheroRandy In Overdrive

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    Maybe for a jack??? Most welding jobs (but certainly not all) can be cleaned up and rewelded...just adding some bracing/gusseting could fix it up without too much work. Here's your chance to learn! MIG welding really is pretty easy and you can get used ones on CL for under well $500...which you can blow pretty quickly if you use a "pro".... Hey, I only have one arm and can still run a bead pretty good...well, most of the time: under a vehicle and reaching can be challenging....!
     
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  10. Tee Jay

    Tee Jay In First Gear

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    I do have a Lincoln mig welder. I can do alright but not sure good enough for my life to depend on it. Wouldn't want the front end comin loose goin down the road. I can run a pretty good bead (Some of the time) but far from a pro. I see what you mean about the cost of a pro. I'll have to check with some of my friends here to see if they know anybody locally and personally if nothing else, just to have a look at what's there and maybe give me some direction and advice. Thanks Randy.
     
  11. pmrphil

    pmrphil In Maximum Overdrive GOLD MEMBER

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    scrap pieces
     
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  12. pmrphil

    pmrphil In Maximum Overdrive GOLD MEMBER

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    A 110 volt welder will NOT penetrate enough for satisfactory weld strength - it needs to be a real welder. :rolleyes:
     
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  13. TestDummy

    TestDummy In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

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    That's the best part of welding. You can cut, grind, and do it again if you suck it up too much. Unless you blow through and melt everything in your path.
     
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  14. Jeff B

    Jeff B In Maximum Overdrive BRONZE MEMBER

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    I don't and probably won't have or do a front end swap. Since you asked, I would make real sure the new front assembly was exactly where it is supposed to be.
    Measure the spindles to the rear end, make sure you can adjust the caster and camber the way it needs to be. Correct ride highth. Wheels don't rub the fenders. Suspension cycles up and down as it should. You get the idea. Once that is all good, go in and blow out the scrap steel that ties it together and make sure it stays on the car and fill in the space where the towers were to help box that area.
     
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  15. Hillbilly

    Hillbilly In Maximum Overdrive

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    Those two tabs up front look sorta' like where an adaptor plate might mount for use with a small block Chevy engine. Heaven forbid ! Seen a lot of those on Jeep conversions.
     
  16. Tee Jay

    Tee Jay In First Gear

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    Ok. Well.....so much fer that idea. Reckon I need a real welder. I think I have a buddy with one. He’s not a pro either though.
     
  17. Tee Jay

    Tee Jay In First Gear

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    Got it. I'll get those measurements once I have the shortened rear end in and can get the back end back on the ground. In a state of suspended animation at the moment. Jus got a clearance from the doc today sayin I can now put 100% weight on my foot with the boot on. Maybe now I can get somethin done.
     

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  18. Tee Jay

    Tee Jay In First Gear

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    I can't tell you how close I came to doin that. I had built the engine below (350, 400hp) to go into a 29 ford roadster I was workin on but like a dummy, instead of sellin it outright, I thought I'd be true to ford and traded it for the crate 302. I got screwed cause he advertised it as a 306 which woulda been around 325 horse, instead I got a stock 302, 235 hp. Reckon I shoulda checked the part number before takin it home. My bad. I do some pretty stupid sh,,,,,,stuff sometimes. I'm hopin I haven't made that mistake on this ranchero.
     

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  19. Jeff B

    Jeff B In Maximum Overdrive BRONZE MEMBER

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    If you are not making mistakes, you're not learning much. We are all pretty capable, just lack experience sometimes. How we handle that is what makes the difference.
     
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  20. RancheroRandy

    RancheroRandy In Overdrive

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    Your frame rails look great! Welding just take practice and using the right settings...more than once I've thought I knew better (or just didn't understand) than the settings printed on the side cover on my welder...they are there for a pretty good reason! With making sure you have good penetration (I can hear the comments now!) and wire speed (and cleaned really, really well) I'm sure you can lay beads that would be strong, dependable and safe...and if you screw up, like it has been said, you grind and try it again... If your triangulated measurements are correct/equal, have at it and you will be pleased and surprised and will really have a sense of accomplishment.
     
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