Yes the ones we have are lame. Especially here in oregon where the flunky mandated gas pump people pop off mine and drop it most of the time. But they can't be held accountable for lost or dented caps. Drivers job to make sure caps on car. Laws to protect the idiots. Guess it should be laws for idiots by idiots. Ok I will climb off soap box. If it works let us know. Very slick looking set up
The list of vehicles it works on is very short. too bad dimensions are not given, that would be great on my 69 E200
yep a Dodge A-body guy came up with it. The spacing looks very close to the nylon offsets I used..the difference is you have a nice big black ring behind, sealing the tank nozzle and covering the ugliness. I put one on order...hopefully not good money after bad. Will let y'all know. P.S. I had postulated using a rag joint...it would be pretty close but would have to be of a palatable material. I'm hoping this works...my son 'digs' the look thereby I have extra incentive. P.P.S. Keep in mind this would be considered 'non-venting' FWIW.
Hey Huevos, discovered your old thread researching this subject. One of the attractions of my 73 was the factory air, obviously long inoperative, even though that York mounted up there is like a tumor. Sounds like I am about the same skill level and am looking at the same project. Compressor, POA and hoses are at Original Air in Florida for reconditiong. They say I can also do without the accumulator (muffler?) in the liquid line. Have new receiver dryer and thermal relief valve in hand. I did this conversion on my El Camino with the Frigidaire and no accumulator using just the kit and a new R/D, and I was lucky enough to have it work. I find that there is an aerosol can of flush solvent available which I intend to try. If you read this and have any more thoughts for me after two years I'd love to hear them, especially the part about Freeze 12.
my wifes 80 mustang is filled with freeze 12, the rest of the system is stock and it works very well!
the worlds most expensive gas cap adventure.....realized. Abandoned the early cuda cap...went with the 70-74 Challenger fuel door reproduction. Some grinding involved, 4 holes to be drilled. Very happy with the results...YMMV. Even the trim ring worked. starting point note the black frame is coated METAL not plastic, huzzah! mounting hole forkfeet are just slightly too large and must be ground down to fit fully into the recess like so...angled and beveled for snug fit, will require some clean up and fresh paint.
had to add 4 holes so slightly invasive but the metal is pretty thick in this area. Voila!.....slightly canted for 2 reasons...I wanted some space between the mounting holes for the gascap and the fuel inlet. Also at this angle the door will stay naturally open while you are fueling. standard Torino inner cap now required.
The King Biscuit Flower Hour..or...how I got backed into a corner since I need to get this done before paint. A while back Ribald pointed out the poor condition on the rubber mounts at my radiator frame area...knew he was right...started with these mounts..intend to move onto the cab to frame mounts hopefully with as little loss of blood as possible. old mount in place. Once can reference the body mount document on the site for the specifics and dimensions. These pictures might shed a little light on the construction. side view of nose of the frame with biscuit removed. Drivers side was an SOB to pull out ..note my fenders are still in place. Even with bolt pulled the biscuit had become one with the frame. Rust was from the internal tophat and bolt of the body mount. In the distance is the obround hole from the radiator frame. first view of locating hole for the bushing through the viewing slot. Note locating hole is hexagonal matching the extrusion of the main biscuit, not round. another view of the obround hole in the radiator support another view straight up the pipe. Thank God.....ive seen a lot of torino pics on salt buggies where guys are welding washers in to recreate the frame centering hole. Mine is beautymouse. Dropping the front bumper gives you better access to this cutout hole on the bottom of the frame.
energy suspension kit 9.4102 universal body mount kit to the rescue. Dimensions are very close to the original rubber mounts. Most guys report the space between the frame and lower part of the radiator mount to be 1 to 1.125 inches on the original mounts and reuse the spacers on the original mounts to maintain the same spacing. Note the funny shaped spacers in the back ground are from the drivers side...you may have 1 or none or 3 like i did. I believe these were shoved in after assembly to level up the radiator support. The passenger side has a round super thick washer permanenetly attached at assemble which will be shown later. Also the round extrusion from the new piece fits quite well in the hex hole in the frame WOOT! Another view. There is an inner metal sleeve that goes into the new unit that helps solidify the join between the small biscuit under frame and big biscuit on top of frame. The original has an internal top hat which is in the following pics that is threaded so the bolt literally screws the biscuits together, which then the other end of the bolt going to the topside of the radiator mount has a nut and washer. Note on 72 models the top mount has another rubber biscuit but I would make it like the later models 73-79 for a more solid mount. you can see they fit together through the hex hole in the frame. cleaning up and re using these goofy spacers. condition on the bolts was poor. Replacing with grade 8 zinc plated and slightly shorter...originals 7/16 by 14 pitch by 4.5 inches. I found some at 4 inches long and that is plenty.
passenger side assembly. As you can see the "tophat" is no longer bonded to the biscuit. This side practically fell out. I stress to all of you with this type of setup...check these bushings...they probably need replacement. Do it now before you have to weld on your frame to repair the ragged holes...or worse. You can see how it recesses into the bushing. another view with the hex extrusion.
ITS funny how losing a little blood while working on your ride is totally acceptable looking better everyday,
Glad to see you still have intact metal. I think it's great that you got serious about saving your Ranchero, anything that tightens up the body / frame connection extends the life span of the beast. Good on ya, Brother ! A little bloodletting by your beast just means it loves you, kinda' like having an oversize cat.
this is not the final order of assembly but it does show the extrusion fitting the biscuits together through the frame along with the metal sleeve that runs through the center. Note the rubber washer wasn't needed. sorry about the quickie hand sketch. Note this is passenger side with factory single round spacer. On the drivers side it has 3 thinner funky shaped spacers. Final hardware was Grade 8 zinc bolt 7/16 by 4 inches. Next was big washer that came with the kit. Next was small biscuit. This is pushed up into frame hole. Large biscuit extrusion is on other side of frame hole. On top of big biscuit is either single big spacer on passenger side or stack of skinny spacers on drivers side. Next is bottom of radiator mount. On topside is another kit big washer. Followed by factory upper washer. Followed by grade 8 zinc lock washer. Finally nut matching new bolt. In place on passenger side. Note my final gap as assembled from bottom of radiator mount to top of frame was 1.250. It was bang on the same on the drivers side. Most torino guys report 1 to 1.125 gap. Tightened to 40lbs Test drove extensively on Sunday. Everything seems excellent. 2 biscuits down, 8 to go.
very nice HUEVOS RANCHERO ,LOVE THE PICTURE TRAIL ,makes me remeber what I went thru when I did my ranchero ,as I did not know about this site till later ,don't look like much rust between frame and core support ,undercoating will make it last another 40 plus years
