Discussion in 'The Stable' started by HuevosRanchero, Jul 25, 2011.
Yeah, I love the paste sticks also. A Helluva lot less mess.
Body mounts complete. Had to hog out the last two on the drivers side bed in order to get the bolts started. All torqued down. Will check after a couple of weeks of shake down.
addendum, didnt like the deformation of the 4286's on the underside of the bed bushing assembly...amounted to nothing more than squirrely washers...so I repurposed the much thicker 4045s for the underside by gouging a deep enough relief to mate with the portion of the bushing sticking through the frame...much happier with the result.
Definitely the most thorough body bushing discussion I've found so far. I know I'm gonna need to replace mine at some point, so I'll be checking in on this from time to time.
finally getting around to something I wanted to do years ago...frankly the adapter I made out of my EGR plate worked so well I haven't been in a hurry. Now that paint is on the horizon I figured it was time to get this done plus I had the money laying around and some coupons....
Removal was a breeze which is very scary....waiting for something bad to happen. Everything came away cleanly...didnt have to scrape a thing.
Never seen nipples on intake end gaskets before...made to fit into little holes machined in the block....weird... but I understand you still are better off using just sealer for the intake
ends and not using the gasket that comes with the set. Didn't even have to pull the distributor
just pop it up a little.
what a boat anchor...but it served the car well all these years.
doing this mostly for the weight loss...which is SUBSTANTIAL...just hope the damn hood closes.
Looks like you had some leakage around the exhaust crossover.
I would clean it real well and use a straight edge to check for erosion, exhaust blowing into the crankcase is VERY bad for the engine.
I wouldn't know it if I saw it. Pics were before I wiped up the surfaces. No pitting or erosion I could see on the gasket sealing surfaces. Gaskets seemed in too nice a shape to be original, maybe had been replaced before for a problem? Of course the little bit of lope it has could be a really worn cam or it too may have been replaced with something sportier at the same time?
Exhaust in the crankcase can damage a cam and lifters quickly.
Without a straight edge and a light you can't see erosion.
I recommend you look at the cam through the top of the engine while rotating it by hand. If the lobes are scored a cam and lifters need to go on your list.
In any event, put a ring of gasket cement around the crossover opening on both sides of the gasket. If the new manifold does not have the crossover the high pressures can blow the gasket out.
On a new aluminum manifold or head I always rough up any polished looking gasket surfaces with a red scotch pad for better gasket grip.
I'll check with the straight edge across the plane. Worthy to note the car has run pretty much perfectly for the last 16 years...almost hated to open the motor up but it was time to get it done. Also worthy of note....the bolts were not as tight as I would have expected except for the rear 2...maybe something I caught just in time? Not loose by any means but just broke loose easily and the pan gasket just about lifted right off with little effort. Not that I'm looking a gift horse in the mouth it's just not the usual experience I had with small blocks.
X2. Any surface that needs to seal (block end rails, water passages and intake runners, mainly) needs a slightly rougher surface to give more surface area. Then, once you go to install the intake, run through the torque sequence three times, since the torque values are lower, to properly seat the intake onto the cylinder head surfaces and the block end rails. That was my secret to preventing comebacks on doing lower manifolds on EFI engines, but it also applies to carb intakes.
kewl..I'll need to pick up some scotch brite.
no matter how much you do to your chero you can always find more to do,kwel upgrade
It's the little tricks that keep the headaches at bay.
Top end gasket changes ruin more engines than anything else.
Either the water is not removed and gets into the pan killing a bearing, or an intake exhaust leak ends up killing a cam.
Yep thank goodness for the original gasket having a valley pan...gathered about a cupful which I gratefully soaked up before removal.
Many engines have block drains that should be opened before changing a manifold or head gasket.
And many block drains are inaccessible when the engine's installed, so I use good ol' fashioned science: after removing the lower hose and allowing it to drain, I use air pressure to gently pressurize the block, usually through a hose nipple. Doing so pushes the remaining coolant out through the lower radiator hose.
probably a good idea to do an oil change along with any mods, cheap insurance.
I pull the water pump. Seal one opening with my hand with a hole for the air, then pump 150PSI in there.
And it geysers all over the place. I want control, not more work.
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