I needed to put new bearings in rearend, 9 inch housing and came across a little trick to remove the pressed in bearing races from the housing. If you weld a bead all the way around on the bearing surface, let it cool, it will almost fall out. The weld draws in and makes the bearing smaller. I thought it was way cool, but nobody was around to share it with.
I shoved a clean rag in the alxe tube and then found 2 large washers to put right behind the bearing, held them in place with a magnet then ran a mig weld bead . I pulled the race out with my hand. I will not pull the slide hammer out for this again. Too Cool.
I imagine it would work just running a bead on the face of the bearing near the thick end. Shrinkage caused by welding is usually a problem, here it is a solution. The wheel bearings on modern front wheel drive cars are difficult to remove as they are contained in a sleeve that must be pressed out and it is a beotch to get the spindle set up in the press properly and securely. I will try running a spiral bead inside the sleeve on the next one I do.
Speaking of cool ~ Ice on the bearing shrinks it and can become easy to remove too... I once heated a housing with the steam cleaning process, then dumped a bucket of ice into the bearing, it slid right out without resistance... A much larger bearing, but same stuff ~ Know how & "tricks of the trade"
Ok, how about the other way. I need to remove the press fit bearing race from a John Deere mower deck spindle. The race is pressed down the spindle and against the hub so no was to get under it or grab it for a press. I did think about welding stuff to the race so a press can grab it. Seems like there must be an easier way I can do this at home.
Clark, they intended for you to rig a support for the shaft that would allow you to get a hard enough lick on the bearing race with a sharp chizel to split the race. Either that or zapping the race with a cutting torch. I watched the shop guys flailing away at a set of customer's spindles not long ago at the nearby JD dealer. Instead, I opted for the upgraded spindle assys. Rebuilt the entire deck at 3200hrs. and I think this round might last much longer now that I've ground up all the obstacles in my yard. Replaced every sealed bearing pulley assy. and the belts too. Needle greased all the sealed bearings with the good Schaeffer's too. I had forgotten just how quiet that rig ran when it was new. X-300 with a 42" deck.
Split the race with a chisel, cut with a die grinder or use a plasma cutter is B S when you can weld a bead on the face of the race and let it cool. I'm tellin you it wont take more than a screw driver to pry it out, but then again old habits are hard to break http://blog.hemmings.com/index.php/2009/03/04/a-neat-trick-for-removing-bearing-races/
Airford, you missed one part. The welding trick is sweet on an outer bearing race stuck in a hole, works like nothing anyone would believe. Welding on an inner bearing race stuck on a shaft usually get's a race stuck on even tighter. How you get that inner race to let go of a shaft ?
Clark, I`d try the heat and cool method on it... Heat all of it, then cool the shaft quickly... It may work??? It may not work??? worth a try though... Bearings were used very much in the equipment I worked on at the mine... OR split the race??? Things built nowadays are mostly "Throw away" items... In that it`s cheaper/less expensive to replace the worn part???? A New housing, spindle and blade go for $50 with tax included, locally.... Then you ain`t gotta fool with it for another 10,000 miles....
Funny how things work out... Thanks for bringing this topic up, airford1 I`m changing out axle bearings on "Baloo" the 72-F100, Hillbilly gave me several years ago... This is fresh in my mind as I plunge into and along with this project... One bearing race was shattered on the left side, the right side appears to have been changed out already? You know how that goes with previous owners and all...Like a box of chocolate, you never know what you`re gonna get... Happy Wrenching, HAPPIER Riding, D
Some things have to be fixed. A few years back a guy I know brought over the crank from his 'hit or miss' water pump engine. The pulley was seized on and after I split it I found that rust had damaged the crank. Removing the rust took almost 70 thou off the crank at the pulley. I flame spray welded the crank, turned it down to size on the lathe, and redid the keyway. One of the hazards of just replacing things is the risk of losing the ability to fix things.
As I type this, I`m cooling the axle and warming the bearing for my install... As I age, I find that some things need repair, rather than replacement, as parts are not available,... You gotta do what you gotta do sometimes... Working on my 8N tractors, I`m very fortunate that parts are readily available... ALTHOUGH, aftermarket parts are available, doesn`t mean they`re GOOD parts...Huh Hillbilly? Woke up this morning and had the thought ~ IF you`re gonna get it done this year, you need to do it today... Happy new year,, Dennis
YessSir on using the best parts you can find or afford. It ain't just the part of having to go back and do something over, that thing called "survival" comes to the front too if something breaks and causes your vehicle to hurt ya. Dennis, did that new wheel bearing come with a new retainer ring ? Even if it looks like the bearing and retainer seated completely I'd feel better about it if ya set that axel in a press and made double sure there isn't any slack before you take off driving it again. Going over to Dad's in the morning. You'll smile at the pics.
Your right there Dennis, a lot of replacement parts for those tractors are crap. I rebuilt a 63 Allis Chalmers D-17, not many parts available for that one and had to weld up and recut a bunch of shafts just to get it back together because parts just weren't available. Happy New Year.
