Motorcraft 2150 2V carburetor

Hello, I am having carb flooding problems with my 78 Ranchero, upon investigation I see a replacement rebuilt carburetor ( it has a small label stuck on the rear with a blue line around the word "rebuilt") and there is NO i.d. tag under the air horn bolt, so am not sure which overhaul kit to order.
Can someone tell me the correct Ford number for the original 2bbl carburetor that would have been fitted to the 1978 351M/400 block please?
Many thanks in advance for your help.

 

It's not so much the Ford part number that matters: there were tons of calibrations all built on the same carburetor.
Why would you order an overhaul kit for an already rebuilt carburetor? Anyway, I used STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS 1286A for mine a while ago. Most of the parts in the kit are good for all calibrations.

 

There would have been several different tags on those; you *should* be able to order by year/model/engine, with the only real difference being Federal only or California emissions. Then, your settings come down to getting as close as you can to operating well. But, if you ask me, I think you have a bad power valve, a sunk float or a jammed open needle valve on the float. Taking the air horn off to inspect those is fairly easy, and only the power valve requires you to remove the carb to access it. Its cover is on the bottom of the float bowl.

 

The 2150 2 V Carb. is extremely easy to rebuild and like Handy Andy said the three most important parts Float, Power Valve, and Needle and Seat and 99.9% of the time they turn out great. The Wrench

 

Brilliant, three replies in 2 hours !!!
I wish things worked that good over here in Blighty

Yes, i think the needle is getting stuck in the open (up)
position, and not shutting off the fuel, could be just a bit of dirt/rust/mars rock found its way in there?

The carb label says "FACTORY TESTED"
CARBURETORS
with a rectangular blue arrowed logo around it...
I have no idea how long ago it was changed, could be 20 years ago, who knows, I just wanted to get a rebuild kit so I have a spare needle to hand, can I take the six airhorn screws out and just lift it up to peek inside the float chamber, or is there a risk of damaging the perimeter gasket, I am sure it does not use gasket sealant there??
Will keep you guys posted as to what progress i make, or find,
Thanks for all the advice, and have an ice day

 

One thing to look at is the needle itself. If it has a rubber tip on the sealing end, it could have a spot indented from sitting on a piece of trash and it could be swollen from bad fuel like a heavy dose of ethanol. Unclip the float and pivot shaft then drop it in a pan of water. It has to actually float even if it floats unevenly in the water.

 

If you carefully remove the top ( air horn) most likely the gasket can be reused worse case rebuild kit
have done the horn removal a few times and reused it
Follow the above advice from Hillbilly and Andy and Wrench they know all!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Well, I don't know 'all,' but I've had my share of 2100/2150 carb troubles. So first, take a look at the most likely culprits. It could save you having to rebuild the carb.

 

Well, progress has been made, we removed the carburetor from the manifold, along with a multitude of vacuum pipes going in all directions! (some of which look perished)
Having removed the air horn cover, we discover that there is no wire link that the needle valve hangs on to the brass float arm....
Not sure yet as to which kit to order, but I see on "Mike's Carburetors" youtube videos that all his kits include that tiny part.
We removed the power valve, but no size or i.d. number on that either ?
The two main jets are marked as #50.
Can anyone advise what rating that should be, and what are the correct main jet sizes for a 400 auto, or is it all guesswork from now on ?
I am guessing the correct carb Ford i.d. # should be something like. D8OE-HA, or D8SE-EA,
what are the differences???

 

The power valve marking will be microengraved on the vacuum side of the diaphragm, i.e. facing downward. Easy test on it: put that downward side against your lips for a sealing, and use your lungs to pull a vacuum.if there's no air movement, the diaphragm is sealed, and you should feel the valve move as you apply and let go of that vacuum.

 

Ahh, suck it and see, eh ?!!
thanks for reply, Andy, I just watched another youtube video on the 2150, posted by "capriracer351" - and that carb has EXACTLY the same label on the top rear of the airhorn.
I wonder if its a well known rebuild company in the USA , msybe with the initials T J .....
tried googling that, just takes me to Jeep CJ links.

 

here's that link to that capriracer351 video

 

See the image below for carburetors for a '78 400 engine. B and S are LTDII and Thunderbird, but also Ranchero most of the time.
Parts list 28AW shows only three possible jets for all these carbs: 57F, 59F and 60F. All based on the config. Higher values are mostly non-California setups, lower values California setups.

If you tell a bit more about your car, we can probably narrow it down.

 

Hi thebruins, thanks for that, throws a bit more light and info on the situation...
what more do you need to know about this Ranchero ??
It is California spec, sold new in San Jose, has a/c, towing package & rear airshocks with sway bar, Brougham interior, keep fit windows, not electric!
previous owner was a Robin Riggs, in Modesto, CA.... What else can I tell you ...?

 

Ok, so carburetor ID is most likely D8SE-DA then.
That means 57F jets and power valve D7AZ-9A565-A which is a 2 stage valve - a bit longer than the 1 stage valve.
Kit STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS 1286A should contain all the necessary parts.

 

@thebruins, many thanks for all your help,
kit ordered via Rock Auto, have an ice (cold beer) day, cheers!

 

photo taken on amazon fire 7 tablet

 

Will do

The kit does not contain jets, but I have a few 57F jets if you’re interested. Also, check the bottom of your carb to see if the longer valve will fit (if it has the 1 stage valve now).

 

@thebruins, the longer two stage power valve will not fit, as the cover is the shallow one, with a single stage power valve.
As this is a replacement carburetor, I wonder if it came fitted with the #50 jets, or perhaps the previous owner fitted them, hoping for better economy?
what would I expect to see if I accepted your offer of a couple of # 57F jets, and fitted them instead of the current #50's,
... more power? worse fuel consumption??
How can I reimburse you for them, plus the postage to UK ?? I do have some rare $2 bills ...

 

Maybe a previous owner wanted to compensate for high altitude or cold weather and installed smaller jets. Or, like you said, he or she installed a rebuilt carburetor without knowing exactly which jets were inside. I installed a rebuilt 2150 carb on my car a few years ago and I have no idea about the size of its jets. As long as the engine runs smoothly, idles fine and has good response, it should be ok. So if your engine was doing fine in those areas before the carb started flooding, 57F jets would not necessarily do much. Might want to check your spark plugs: a whiteish tip could indicate a current lean situation. Bigger jets may lead to fouled spark plugs if the engine doesn't really need the bigger jets.
If you do want 2 57F jets - I don't want any money for them, just pay me for S&H and I will send them to you. I'm in the Netherlands so shouldn't be very expensive.