2V to 4V conversion questions

Well, the passenger side is wrinkled and scraped a bit from a hit and run, but the car is still rolls fine. It will be beautiful some day in a few years, but for now I need some engine help.

I'm getting oil in my fuel, its fouling the plugs and im just about out of a car.

Before throwing this 351 cleveland 2v engine in last year I had bought a set of 4V heads, intake manifold, 4V carb and 4V exhaust manifolds to build a better engine with. I've no time, not that much money, and I'm wondering if I need to do anything other than unbolt, gasket, and rebolt everything to make this work.

What am I missing? What wont work in this? I could really use some help here, may is coming up and I've a few days between finals and work to get everything I need done. I've been off of this site for a while unfortunately, but due to a horse related accident two days ago I now have a fractured vertibra and have ample time to worry and plan such things.

Thanks,
Bob Hansler

 

The valvestem seals? I'm a bit ignorant of terminologies. I had purchased remachined 4V heads from a friend last year. I know very little about heads so im assuming a great deal.

Are the valve stem seals the gaskets?

The drugs are starting to work, I really need to get healed within a month or so. I'm a horseback ranger in the Davis Mountains in the summers... The torque will be there, but will not be incorporated too often. Any offhand idea of how much horsepower a 351 with 4V heads will generate?

Thanks for the help.

-B

 

Yeah, the valve stem seals that everyone is talking of on here sit on the stem of the valve behind the springs. They are a rubber umbrella shaped seal with a hole in the center for them to slip over the valve stem. On my original 2bbl cleveland, there was nothing left of these seals, they got hard from all the years of use and broke into pieces. What you also have to worry about when these seals self destruct is that the pieces of them could get logged in the oil drain holes in the head, and starve the bottom end of oil. So when you are in there check for any pieces of the old seals and clean them out if there is any. Also pretty cool job you have there, you are one of those old school Texas rangers.
Dave

 

Awesome, thanks for the tips. As for the oldschool ranger thing, apples and oranges. I dont think there are enough opportunities left in this world to even stand in the shadows of those who have come before me.

Ranger in this context is not police related, though I am a licensed dispatcher. I work and run horses for a 40,000 acre property consisting of Texas Nature Conservacyand Boy Scout property. I run search and rescues, pack supplies, guide people at times, and manage a horse herd of 50 with a few minions. Drugs are kicking in..

thanks again.

 

If you are going with the 4v heads that are remachined or rebuilt, your valve stems seal have already been replaced. I think the suggestion above regarding the valve stem seals are related to your old 2v heads that you are going to replace. Which is why you would have oil passing through the seals and into the cylinder fouling out your plugs. Basically, if this is the case, I think the suggestion is because it would be an easier quicker repair to just replace the valve stem seals, rather than a top end swap. I will be corrected if I am wrong here, but from what I understand, the 2v heads are better street heads, where the 4v heads are better on the top of rpm range.

 

Bob, I think you missed 2Seater's point about the torque. At the best with a good back you'll think you broke something after replacing the heads while the engine is in the car. Ever counted how many head bolts you have ? Each one has to be tightened to the correct torque and you'll have to twist yourself into some painfull positions to get the job done. Drugs might mask additional pain but you could easily do a lot more damage to you if you are already hurt.

 

Hmm, the peices are already bought and paid for. The shop is lined up, and my mechanic friends are on-board. I wont be the one hurting myself, and this wont be happening for several more weeks. I've an engine that was pulled from a junk yard car and needs to be worked on.

I've the time for once and the rescources to get it done... It would be folly at this point to just sit and stare at $1000 plus worth of car parts and not do anything. The engine is old, used, and needs new heads for many reasons. I do not have the money to remachine them.

 

I was also referring to his old untouched 2v heads. If the new ones were in fact rebuilt like the op said, they should have new everything in them including valve seals unless they are bare cores. Also if you do decide to fix the 2bbl heads, you are going to have to get a fitting that screws into you spark plug hole, then you fill the cylinder up with compressed air. This is so when you remove the valve springs, your valves do not drop into the cylinder. This allows you to change the springs or seals without removing the heads.
Dave

 

OK ! Just wanted to warn you that you could really hurt yourself. Sounds like you got a plan that's good. Be scrupulous about keeping everything clean an' you should be good to go.

 

hope you're changin the cam as well.....

 

True things are not going to match up well if you don't do that. Something to think of. Probably even a rv cam would be better than a stock 2bbl cleveland.

 

The cam might not match up? I'm not comprehending this.

Pull heads off, clean it up, add gaskets, add new heads, tune and done?

I've done a head job on a couple chevy suburbans, changing the heads out took a few hours... I didn't think the block would have to be messed with on a ford. Which is it?

 

Ah, ok. I am a poor college student who needs a vehicle to get him to the mountains and back every once in a while until I graduate next year. The truck wont be racing and wont be pushed at all during this time.

When I do graduate and get some disposable income, then the fun will begin. For now though, I just need it to be a car.

Thanks for all of the help. Last thought, putting this all together, is there a preferred carbeurator size and make that ya'll would endorse and the part number of some quality headers that would match up and fit under there.

Anyone done this? I'm the exhaust manifolds but have been told that headers would be better.

 

Yup, that is what me and the op meant. It is too bad, because I had a extra edelbrock cam that would have worked pretty well for you, but the dizzy gear got destroyed. So i ended up tossing it when I built up the new motor. You could also get a decent cam for around $100, they are out there.
Dave

 

I would strongly recommend you do a wet/dry compression test. Try to determine where your oil consumption is coming from. If you have any weak cylinders, putting on a new set of tight heads could blow the rings out which results in more time and money down the road.