Hi guys. the weather is fine, which is good. The damn corona calms down the usual life. :-( So I poke around the car and spot things I do not understand but you for sure do. 1. I measured the voltage in front of the coil. It was about 12V. So I need a resistor, right? That is even written on the coil. I have no Petronix or something like that. Would you recommend Pertronix? Do I need a resitor anyway? 2. See the picture of my manifold. There is a liquid under the coil. It looks like oil but I would say it is dirty water. Like a light, liquid tar. Can a manifold be broken this way? That some water comes out there,? Should I worry and do something about it asap? (Image 0. Unfortunately you can't see it well. The dark spot under the coil.) 3. Do I need all the vacuum-hose staff as seen on the pictures? I searched for this and it seems to be some emission control thing. I am afraid that all this vacuum-hoses could cause troubles. What do you recommend? Is it usefull? Or shoudl I go back to "standard"? And there is a part on the carb that has no connection to nothing. I suppose that is part of the emission control, but not working. Or has it some other function? (Vacuum hoses: mage 4. Strange aprt: image 3 and the blurred part in front of image 2.) So, thanks for answers in advance, have a nice day or night and stay healthy. Petr
In your picture of the sticker on the coil, is the word internal before the word resister? If so it is an internal resister coil with the resister built into it. no external resister is required and 12v at the coil would be correct.
As for the vacuum lines, the ones you show for the vacuum advance on the distributor are necessary, but not necessarily for better emissions, just better engine operation. The device screwed into the thermostat housing switches advance vacuum between manifold and venturi vacuum, so that the engine operates better between cold and hot operation.
Hi Tony. The word is "external". To use with external resistor. OK. Was just wondering. When I looked for informations about this, I often found pictures of less complex versions. Andrew, btw, I will get some support regarding my the ignition-setting and carb adjusting. I have to be patient as we can't meet right now.
Is the 12 volts at the coil with? the engine running, or just key on, engine off? If key on, engine off, and the points are open, it will show battery voltage with or without a resistor.
I think the port on the carb in the second picture is generally used to circulate air through the choke system so it can decide whether to open or close depending on the temperature of the air. Not sure how your choke system is set up as in that same picture the hose on the choke is going somewhere we cannot see.
His carb's the same as mine, it's the air supply to the choke stove, where the carb pulls metered filtered air through the stove to heat up, and pass that heat to the choke thermostat's bi-metallic spring.
you are right. I found this explanation that helps me to understand. https://www.carburetor-parts.com/2100-Choke-Pull-Down-Operation_ep_772.html the hose on the choke is going directly to the thermostat housing. To the connection/port in the middle.
just key on. I just measured the wire to the coil. My idea was: if there is a resistor somewhere, the wire would have less then 12v.
I can answer part of your questions -- on a '69 system there is an internal resistor; it is part of the underdash wiring harness. You don't need an external resistor with a stock coil. This is switched around by the starter circuit, when the key is in 'start' position a local wire bypasses the internal resistor. The resistor is several feet of wire that is folded up under the tape-cover, wire might be made of aluminum. To the best of my knowledge, a Pertronics unit will fit with no change using stock wiring. No resistor is necessary. I don't recognize your carburetor? I expected a Ford 2-bbl carb, model 2100.
thanks for the info. and I expected that I have the model 2100, too. Andrew knows my car better then me
That is a tag for a 2100, but the design of the body is more like a 2150. So, it's 'D1ZF-AA,' the 'D' in 'ADA' means it has a later change in the design.
So, we do not have the original carb from 1969? Or is it just me? ;-) I suppose there are almost no matching carbs after 50 years. I would even expect more "zombies". You know, when you start to repair and build one out of three. I probably am missing the Anti-Stall Daspot I see in your picture. Do you habe a picture of the stock/original desing of the accelerator linkage? Thanks
Well, maybe technically it's not from 1969 but I doubt the 1971 version is much different. A lot of the letters that come after the first 4 characters indicate different (emission) calibrations so unless you still have the sticker from 1969 somewhere on your engine it's pretty hard or perhaps impossible to get the exact same carb that was on the car when it rolled out of the factory.
And also, it's possible your carb was used to replace the original, for whatever reason. But, for sure, the tag does denote a 1971 carb.