Body Fillers

Discussion in 'Ranchero Tech Help' started by DonC, Jun 6, 2015.

  1. DonC

    DonC In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

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    Gonzales Louisiana
    Has anyone else tried the 3M Platinum Plus body filler? I was using the Rage Extreme from Evercoat but tried the 3M Platinum after the gal at the paint store turned me on to it. It's cheaper only 40 dollars for .8 gallons and works much better than others I have used. I have both the Rage and 3M at the house now and finished a can of the 3M so figured I would go back to the Rage since the can is a little older. I spread, let it cure and sanded and plugged up my sand paper first pass. Not happy, so went and grabbed a new can of the 3M mixed it and spread it out and no paper clogging it just sanded and applied much nicer. I have been using it as a glaze filler, it works as well as Eurosoft which usually costs 25 to 30 a quart. Not affiliated with 3M but wanted to pass on the word, it is well worth trying it out. I think you will like it.
     
  2. ribald1

    ribald1 Banned PLATINUM MEMBER

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    I never have paper clog unless there wasn't enough hardener added. Of course I only use 40 or coarser paper or cards on filler. I have found that all the polyester based fillers work well.
    Then I either skim with a polyester glaze, or mix feather fill primer into the polyester filler to make a glaze. Cut that with 100, prime, block and paint.
     
  3. DonC

    DonC In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

    Messages:
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    Location:
    Gonzales Louisiana
    I like the idea of feather fill in the filler, will have to try that. Yep, I think in my case I was a little short on hardener. But I do like this 3M product better than the Evercoat, mixes easier with the hardener.
     
  4. ribald1

    ribald1 Banned PLATINUM MEMBER

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    Location:
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    When the spot is small and intrudes into the existing painted area with no bare metal, mixing the primer into the filler for the skim saves the step of priming. You can just seal and paint. The cream hardener works with the feather fill as well as the liquid stuff does.
    I work the metal to reduce the amount of filler. A bit of shrinking/stretching with a torch can usually bring it to where just a skim coat is required, but I understand how the constraints of time can impact a project.
    Personally, I think more time should be spent mixing filler, skim coat, paint, etc... than applying it. In my experience the better the work, the more the tiny flaws stand out. Maybe it is just my eye, but I see the faint circles where the hardener was not fully mixed into the paint and the light streaks where the filler cured after the primer was shot.
     
  5. DonC

    DonC In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

    Messages:
    4,434
    Location:
    Gonzales Louisiana
    I also can catch where body work was done if it was not blended properly or as you said it shrunk after the work. I work so slow that most of the shrinking has taken place by the time I am ready to paint. Working in cooler weather can also have an impact since those polyester products cure to the warmest temperature. I also spray feather fill over my work and block it out again a couple of times to ensure I got it slicked out good. Getting close, work on the bed now, sides are looking about 98% and bottom is about 60%. Bottom is looking a lot better than I thought it would so might paint instead of bed liner, still undecided.
     

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