distributor stuck!

Discussion in 'Ranchero Tech Help' started by Dan the ranchero man, Nov 9, 2020.

  1. R.C.Heli Pilot

    R.C.Heli Pilot In Second Gear

    Messages:
    85
    Location:
    Arizona
    Have you tried "shocking" it with a piece of wood and a dead blow hammer ?

    I have also knocked stuff loose using a air chisel with a blunt chisel and with the air pressure turned down
    kinda like using woody woodpecker to set up a vibration :)
     
  2. Dan the ranchero man

    Dan the ranchero man MODERATOR Staff Member

    Messages:
    4,143
    Location:
    Mchenry , IL
    HUMM .... never thought of that and I do own an air chisel. this could still happen this year! I will try it Sunday morning. We have some things to do at 10:00 am for the rest of the day, But will try and get out there early let you know! (Very encouraging) :):)
     
  3. R.C.Heli Pilot

    R.C.Heli Pilot In Second Gear

    Messages:
    85
    Location:
    Arizona
    Put some pressure on it with a prybar or channel locks when you do it
    maybe it will finally surrender :)
     
  4. LSChero

    LSChero In Maximum Overdrive PLATINUM MEMBER

    Messages:
    2,339
    Location:
    Area 6 NV
    My "go to" penetrating oil is PB or kroil.Usually bolts will relent..Probley got some electrolysis with the two unlike metals.May have to remove some acc. brackets to get a good bite on base with pipe wrench.Might want to pick up another dizzy before you get animal!Try freezing base with R12/134 with engine hot.Good luck Dan.
     
  5. Dan the ranchero man

    Dan the ranchero man MODERATOR Staff Member

    Messages:
    4,143
    Location:
    Mchenry , IL
    Well, Folks was at it again this morning now the engine was "cold" tried the 3 ft pry bar again the distributor body would "twist" and the base would stay put. set up the air chisel and set it low and tested it on another old beat up dizzy and the chisel blew the casting apart in pieces! So decided not to try that at this time for fear of the same happening to the one I need to use. So for now I will just keep applying the penetrating oil and try the pry bar now and then. If nothing comes of that will wait until spring time when I have other options available to drive while this one is down. Then I will not care if dizzy breaks and will buy a new one. Thanks everyone, Peace, DAN
     
  6. Hillbilly

    Hillbilly In Maximum Overdrive

    Messages:
    6,132
    Location:
    Winchester, TN.
    Since the crud holding the distributor in place is under the sealing ring, ever thought about running some engine flush ? Might soften up the crud.
     
  7. Dan the ranchero man

    Dan the ranchero man MODERATOR Staff Member

    Messages:
    4,143
    Location:
    Mchenry , IL
    I have been running marvel Mystery oil in the engine since it came home. In 4 weeks there has been 4 oil changes with new filters (yes I said that right) The first three changes the oil would turn black in about 30 min of run time. after the third it finally stayed gold and that is what is in there now 4 qts of 15 40W and 1 marvel. Is there another product you would recommend that would work better or be better suited to my issue? I am all ears! While the miles are low I am guessing when it did get used it missed many oil changes :(. Thanks for your help!
     
  8. Hillbilly

    Hillbilly In Maximum Overdrive

    Messages:
    6,132
    Location:
    Winchester, TN.
    Running out of ideas that won't harm the engine itself. Sounds like lot's of short runs that never let the engine get hot enough to dry out. How bad is it under the valve covers ?
     
  9. Dan the ranchero man

    Dan the ranchero man MODERATOR Staff Member

    Messages:
    4,143
    Location:
    Mchenry , IL
    Have not looked in there yet. But I am guessing you are 100% correct about the short run thing. I am driving now 26 miles one way. It gets plenty hot now. Like I said will just wait until other options are available .
     
  10. 6delta

    6delta In Fourth Gear

    Messages:
    253
    Location:
    Citrus Heights, CA
    I have had some things loosen with homemade penetrating oil (atf and acetone). Just dribble it around the distributor when you shut down after it is hot and let it soak until cold. Cover it with some oily rags to slow evaporation.

    On a side note. Have you looked at the crank pulley to see if it has slipped the outer ring? I cannot see how it can start with the kind of timing you are seeing. 30 degrees at an idle is more than anything I have could start with. Especially when hot.

    Good luck getting it loose.
     
  11. aquartlow

    aquartlow In Maximum Overdrive

    Messages:
    1,402
    Location:
    Summerfield Florida
    Just to get the timing good, how about removing the tang that locates the distributor cap to the distributor cap adapter? If done the clips won't work anymore but they can be removed as well. Check timing with light and once it's where you want it mark the cap meets adapter (you are now just moving the cap/wires), shut engine off, remove distributor cap and place 4 or 5 spots of silicone on meeting surfaces of cap and adapter, then re-install cap with rubber bands to keep it in place. Should be good for another 100K ;). Hopes this helps and/or makes sense.
     
  12. handy_andy_cv64

    handy_andy_cv64 In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

    Messages:
    11,711
    Location:
    Seguin, TX
    That won't work, as both the cap and the pick-up coil inside the body have to move in unison, but I now wonder: the cap has the #1 tower marked, does that wire go to #1, or is it one post off? If someone moved the wires one post to advance, could they be moved in the opposite to retard?
     
  13. aquartlow

    aquartlow In Maximum Overdrive

    Messages:
    1,402
    Location:
    Summerfield Florida
    You should look at the distributor cap and adapter again, if you remove the tang that locates the cap to the adapter, the cap will move without the adapter or distributor body moving. This is a '76 DURASPARK distributor, there are two parts to the distributor cap, a cap where the wires are located and an adapter to allow the larger DURASPARK cap to be used. This is not a points style of cap

    upload_2020-11-22_16-37-44.jpeg

    BTW, each plug terminal is 45 crank degrees apart
     
  14. Dan the ranchero man

    Dan the ranchero man MODERATOR Staff Member

    Messages:
    4,143
    Location:
    Mchenry , IL
     
  15. Dan the ranchero man

    Dan the ranchero man MODERATOR Staff Member

    Messages:
    4,143
    Location:
    Mchenry , IL
    I have the old school smaller cap with no adapter
     
  16. aquartlow

    aquartlow In Maximum Overdrive

    Messages:
    1,402
    Location:
    Summerfield Florida
    Then I need to send an apology to Andy!
     
  17. aquartlow

    aquartlow In Maximum Overdrive

    Messages:
    1,402
    Location:
    Summerfield Florida
    Hey Andy, my apologies, Dan informed me that he uses a non-DURASPARK cap. So you were correct in your assumption that what I was thinking won't work!
     
  18. Dan the ranchero man

    Dan the ranchero man MODERATOR Staff Member

    Messages:
    4,143
    Location:
    Mchenry , IL
    yeah, they used duraspark in combination with the old school cap and rotor from 74-76. They went to the adapter style in 77 and up. no biggie again this a real head scratcher because I don't want to chance breaking it and having the car disabled. All and everyone's suggestions are not only considered but really appreciated ! Thanks, Dan
     
  19. Dan the ranchero man

    Dan the ranchero man MODERATOR Staff Member

    Messages:
    4,143
    Location:
    Mchenry , IL
    For now that might be a really good option. I will let you all know how that works out tomorrow after work.
     
  20. handy_andy_cv64

    handy_andy_cv64 In Maximum Overdrive SILVER MEMBER

    Messages:
    11,711
    Location:
    Seguin, TX
    I, of course, accept your apology, but even with points, or a Davis Unified, or Accel, etc., the principle is the same: the wires and dizzy 'pickup' or points must move together, in relation to the block, otherwise you run the risk of burning out the coil, or causing the engine to up and die. But, even I'm wrong, as regarding the firing order would put the engine way past TDC. But, hey, we're all trying to help. So, Dan, DO NOT move the wires. You could try using big channel lock pliers to attempt to move it again. I have a 460 DS II dizzy, I'll take a look at it, crunch my brain.
     

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