Engine Build Plan

I figured I would go ahead and start a new thread when it came to the actual build of my engine instead of continuing the "Am I Crazy" thread.

I am looking for any input on what to upgrade and specifics would even be appreciated. I have a set of bare 460 C9VE Heads and will be picking up a C9VE 429 Short Block on Wednesday. I am planning on putting this in my 1976 Ranchero GT with an FMX in the future. If an FMX is going to be an issue I have a C6 that can be rebuilt.

Now for the specifics on what I am wanting to do. I want to spend about 3k on the upgrades to the engine over the next couple years, that 3k doesn't include the machining that will need to be done. I have no plans to take this to a strip, I just want something that is quick taking off from a dead stop on the street. I am working on my own plan using different parts that way if something comes available for a good price online I can know what I want. As soon as I pick up the short block I will post some pics. When I finish my list I will post it and will make changes as I get input but feel free to make suggestions before hand. Thanks.

 

It sounds like you're going for a "street/strip" build, so I recommend 2 things: go with the C6, as I've never seen any performance builds on an FMX boat anchor, and make sure you install a large trans cooler to keep the trans happy. As for the engine, what's the chance you can find a complete 429 reciprocating assembly?

 

Ok, so the question about the reciprocating assembly, I had to look up what this refers to and now I understand. I found this on superstreetonline.com.
"The crankshaft, connecting rods, pistons, bearings, and rings make up the reciprocating assembly, which (as its name implies) is made up of several hunks of metallurgy that turn reciprocating motion into rotating motion."

Do you mean in the engine I pick up or out of another stock engine? I figured most of this would be replaced as I was rebuilding the engine itself.

 

Hopefully the crank and rods in your block can be reused.
While I only use forged pistons, you could use hyperutectic and save a couple bucks.
I have dyno software that can model different builds. This weekend I will mock up your 429 build so compression/cam choices can be made.

 

That will be much appreciated, let me know if you need any other info.

 

Normally, the crank, rods and wrist pins are not replaced, unless you go with full-floating wrist pins with spiral locks, and that's decided on at the time you buy your pistons. The bearings, rings and the pistons themselves are all normally replaced. As for finding one, whichever displacement you want, it's just a matter of searching. one other question: did the block come with the main caps and cap bolts? It's not my intention to insult your intelligence, but sometimes, people forget those come with the block.

 

You are not insulting me, I know nothing when it comes to engines. I am picking it up Wednesday so I will know if it comes with that then.

 

If it doesn't, there are alternatives, but they do cost money. So I'll keep my fingers crossed that they do.

 

I mocked up a 429. I used the edelbrock large chamber heads as I didn't have the specs on the C9VE. Used stock pistons, compression came in at 8.27 with that combo. Used a comp cam, 110 lobe separation, 203/216 @.050 valve lift .463/.489 a rather mild cam.
Yielded 382 torque @5250 and 428HP @ 6250.
I sent an email to a guy I know that does some flow testing, hopefully he can give me the numbers for a C9VE head.

 

Got the specs on the C9VE heads. They essentially have the same chambers, valves and intake runner size as the DOVE.
With the right pistons, intake and exhaust 500HP will not be difficult.

 

Thanks, that is right around what I was hoping to hear. I had been looking at the 460 build sheets on 460ford.com and didn't know if I was looking at it right. You just got me even more excited to get into this.

 

You're welcome.
The cheapest way to power is through compression. With iron heads and pump gas you are limited to about 8.5-1 dynamic unless you bring the quench down under .050 . If you run a .040 quench and have your timing curve and A/F dialed in you can run a 9-1 or a bit more (dynamic) allowing for a milder cam.
My preferred method is to set the piston to zero out flush with the top of the deck and control quench with the head gasket.

 

I have been told to use a recurved distributor, would you still recommend this?

 

Down the road (when the engine is complete or near so) you, or someone else, will change the timing curve to match the engine. It is actually a simple task that is finalized after break in and trial runs on the engine to whip the carburetor into compliance through adjustment.
Don't get ahead of yourself. A proper build of the engine should be your focus. Carburetor and distributor choices and tuning are irrelevant until after the design of the long block.

 

To plug in the big "IF" factor on how much compression you want, Ribald sorta' needs to know how you plan on driving this build. All street ? Any long distance runs ? How good is the fuel you have available, etc. All engines are built around comprimises, you can still get decent drivability and exceptional performance if you plan carefully now. Think hard and share every detail so you don't get over your head and have to spend more to correct a bad combination. I love the 385 series big blocks, grew up driving them. You are in for a fun ride !

 

Thanks Hillbilly!
That's why I keep dragging him back to the beginning of the build.
As usual, you are far more eloquent than I.

 

This is a completely street build and for the most part will be just driven around our local town. We have no stop lights, no hills, and straight roads all through our county. The longest trip we will ever take will be a drive to the OBX which is about 50 miles. I actually only use 92 in my tank now but am unable to get ethanol free gas.

My plan has always been to lay out on paper every different part of the engine before I even purchase anything. When I ask questions about something it isn't necessarily to buy it now but so that I can put it on the list. The only thing I have purchased is the foundation (short block and heads). I really do appreciate everyone's input as I started this knowing nothing and pretty much still know nothing, but am trying to soak up as much as possible.

 

These guys have obviously been there, done that an' got the tee shirt. You are getting a priceless education before you even skin a knuckle or need to clean your fingernails. Keep askin'. I'm also getting educated from the answers.

 

I know, I can't imagine having to do this before the internet, I guess I would be solely relying on a book and hoping I had a good friend who knew what they were doing.

 

Got one serious question for ya. Have you ever driven a nose heavy light in the rear performance car ? Keep in mind that what you are planning on building is not trivial, the total horsepower numbers aren't as important as the torque numbers a good 460 or 429 can generate. Are you capable of exercising a bit of restraint ? Even a base low compression 460 can get you in big trouble if you try to have too much fun and have never experienced the torque curve of these engines. See that Boss 429 in my avitar ? I witnessed it put a big Cyclone Mercury instantly backward on a 1-1/2 mile oval during filming for a tv show when Dad gassed it to pass the camera truck at around 100 mph. Just keep it in mind that even though it was easy to build that monster, it has no soul and would think nothing of getting you in over your head in a heartbeat. Enjoy it but be carefull ! I think the other guys here with big-blocks will echo my thoughts.