Engine oil

Afternoon all,finally getting closer to getting my 67 out and about,new rebuilt 390 crate motor just arrived,lots of break-in directions,they provided cam break in lube and said to use either 30 weight,15/40 or 20/50 detergent oil,run engine for 20minutes at 2000 rpms to break in cam,it’s an isky racing cam,any thoughts on oil?they recommended shell oil and of course ZDDP,I’ve always used Lucas hot rod oil that already has zinc in it,they told me that the Lucas hot rod oil is a synthetic,I went to my auto parts store and looked at it and I don’t think it is?don’t want to do the wrong thing and void the warranty,any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated,should be between 340-360 horsepower

 

I'd try and get some Driven (ex-Joe Gibbs) break in oil, it's called BR, it's a 15W50 break-in oil with the correct amount of zinc, phosphorus, moly, and other additives made just for breaking in cams, seating rings, etc. That's all I will use in a fresh engine. The Shell Rotella no longer has the correct amount of zinc required for break-in, I'm kinda surprised that someone still recommends it. P.S. I don't think Lucas is synthetic, either.

 

Hey Phil,I’ll look into it,thanks

 

Saff, here's some good reading about oil ratings.
https://www.sccoa.com/forums/threads/what-oil-brands-offer-the-best-protection-good-read.136304/
I use Valvoline VR1 10W30 (and complain about the cost). It's also available in several different weights. VR1 10W30 is currently listed for $9.29/qt at my local NAPA, but I used my AAA card and got it for $7.43/qt, which eased the pain. And Motorcraft FL1-A filters are $3.97 at our Walmart.

 

Thanks BB,interesting,everything you need to know about oil but was afraid to ask!,very informative,I always used Lucas hot rod oil,wonder if that attributed to it demise,Phil,summit has the break in oil you mentioned,gonna check into it

 

The VR1 got great reviews and it’s readily available in my area,think that’s the way to go,thanks!

 

I read more by this guy about break in oils. He basically says the high zinc break in oils are junk and not necessary even for flat tappet cams. I was just about to spend $100 on a case of Driven break in oil but I'm not sure now. Any thoughts?

Here's the article: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forum...9-test-data-on-9-different-break-in-oils.html

 

Here's his most updated blog and list. Read it for hours.

https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/

 

After more research I too am leaning toward's BB's Valvoline VR-1, 10W-30 for break-in and post break-in. It has the higher level of zinc recommended by Melling for my cam plus excellent wear prevention. Despite what the blogger says I'll probably still do the 2000 rpm break-in for 20 minutes then change the oil and filter, then 500 miles, then change again.

 

Probably think I am nuts for spending what I do on engine oil, but having no oil related failures means a lot to me considering the replacement cost of some of my engines. From the lowly lawn mowers, the tractors, trucks, everyday driver cars, to the 427's and Boss 9's - - All of my junk is protected by various versions of Schaeffer's Oils. Zero failures for many years now. ( http://www.schaefferoil.com )

 

It looks like the oil blogger tested 2 types of Schaeffer's oil for wear protection. One is ranked 147th and the other 224th on his list. See link above.

 

Motor looks good Saff!Is that a blue monkey build?
Like Hillbilly,been using same oil for years on all my rides with no issues.(mobil 1 full syn.)I use a good 30w for break in.Get oil primed to lifters just before first start,run for 18/20 minutes at 1800/2000 rpm,change oil/filter while still warm and refill.

 

Don't know what to think about that rating. A buddy ran a test on a batch of the semi-synthetic Schaeffers using a 94 Lincoln 4.6 engine. We used the pee bottle send in a sample for wear metal analysis method every five thousand miles. At twenty thousand miles the oil still checked at 70 percent good with no engine wear showing. We changed the oil and filter anyway as the oil was just starting to change from it's green tint to red. Engine is still going strong at a bit over 250 thousand miles using Schaeffers 7000 series 10 W 30 the entire time since new.

 

Sooo..should be installing the engine on Wednesday,hoping to start it up next weekend,my mechanic friend has been slammed but it looks like we’re good to go,Phil I’m going with your suggestion and got the driven break in oil,should I replace right after the initial break in ?ie 2000 rpm for 20 minutes to break in the cam,been getting conflicting answers,one says,after 50 miles,another said 500?as always thanks for any help or suggestions!

 

I've always told customers 500 miles, with only one comeback that was the customer's fault, but just whatever you're comfortable with.

 

If you don't already have a magnetic drain plug, that might be something to consider also.

 

Normally after the cam break-in period I do one more heat cycle (driving or stand still) and then at least change the filter and add a quart, drive another 100 miles or so and do a complete change. Oil's cheap when compared to the cost of a rebuild or repair. Remember to not beat the heck out of it on the first drive.

 

Remember to not beat the heck out of it on the first drive.
Yes, don't do this....

 

HEY !! That wasn't the first drive