Hey everyone. Just made a deal today to buy a 71 GT. It’s in Pa. and I’m in Illinois so it’s going to take some effort. I think it’s a Special. The bench seat is a plaid design. The door data shows Body 66c Trim ZE Axle 6. I couldn’t find info on that trim code. I’ll get some pictures tomorrow. Thanks for letting me join your website. I’m sure there is a ton of information to be found.
Welcome Bob... If all else fails, you can contact Ford Customer support. Number/E-mail is on their web site, and you can provide them with the VIN, and they can provide you with a letter about your car. For a price of course. The Marti Report will do the same thing. Just won't have a Ford signature.
Update. The Ranchero in Pa. was not in the best condition. They dropped the price by $3000 and I still wouldn't take it. That was a wasted 1800 mile roadtrip. The 2009 F150 did well so I guess I'm happy about that. Fast forward to today. I found a 70GT on a Facebook listing in Phoenix. This time I did more research on the vehicle. I talked to several of the previous owners and found out tons of info about it. I made the deal and had it shipped to Illinois. I'm happy to say that it met my expectations. It's not perfect but I intend on driving it so it will be fine. The truck is very fast. The previous owner added some mods to the engine. The only real issue I'm having is with the instrument cluster lighting. When the key is turned to on the oil light will display but not the alternator light. Hopefully it's just a bulb.
Man, that is niiiiiiice. Does the cluster have an ammeter? If so, even if the dash has a warning light, the circuit is wired to allow charging through a shunt underhood. And if the cluster doesn't have an ammeter, the warning light has a shunt on the back of the cluster, to allow charging even if the bulb is burned out. The 'I' circuit on the voltage regulator controls the warning light, so it needs to be checked for proper operation before tearing into the dash.
Thanks for your reply. How do I check the I circuit? If I take out the 4 screws on the top of the cluster will there be enough room to get at bulbs. The right turn signal doesn’t work either. Not sure if that’s related.
In removing the cluster, you have to disconnect the speedo cable, then the electrical connector. Unfortunately, I've never done any dash work on any '60s-early '70s Torino's, so if you make a new thread in the Ranchero Tech section, I'm sure another member can help you with the proper procedure to access the back of the cluster.
The Ranchero should be dry coming from Phoenix . Starting with a nice Ranchero is the best way to go. Leaves only the hard stuff like "changing light bulbs" Hope you post more pics.
From experience, if the bulb is good, start looking at the bulb holder contacts and the printed circuit. The bare copper contacts at the bulb locations and where the large multi wire plug-in connect can corrode over the years. Often a carefull and gentle cleaning of those bare copper contact points will solve your problems. After I clean them I use silicone dielectric grease on the contact point to keep them from further corrosion. It is a pain but confirm you have everything functioning before you connect the speedo cable and install all the trim.
1MB max size. If you have trouble resizing them, you can send them to me at silvertwinkiehobo@gmail.com, and I can resize them for you.