Discussion in 'The Stable' started by Scott Zimmerman, Jun 8, 2014.
wow! looks great!
I like your car a lot; I first started looking for a '66, found my ratty '71 first.
At some point you should get rid of those helper springs on the rear shocks. At the top end the shocks are just mounted into sheet metal, not meant to carry static loads. If you need it higher, then the leaf springs should be replaced.
I was never a fan of the 66 -69 Falcons - they just looked ugly to me. 64-65 Falcon/Ranchero were my favorite. We were looking for 68-71 Ranchero's when this popped up and seeing how clean the lines were in person changed my opinion. The Falcon front end looks great on the Ranchero and is still ugly on the Falcon. My son likes this style better than the stacked headlamps on the '67. Everyone has their preferences. If I ever get the chance to by my '65 Falcon back I will - otherwise I'll have to get a Ranchero for myself. It's been too much fun and we've only had it for 2 days.
So, just run the shock with no spring? I'll order some new leaf springs from Dearborn and my neighbor will help my son install them. The neighbor was glad to see another classic rig in the neighborhood.
The choke is set a bit lean.
Loosening the screws and dialing the choke control cover to the center line should help the cold starting issues. If it does, you can try moving even further rich.
For fuel economy you want it to be set as lean as still allows proper cold starting.
Looking at the pictures again I noticed that you have aftermarket three point seatbelts installed. This is an upgrade I would like to do on my '67. Would you mind taking pictures of all the mounting points etc. and posting them here?
Here you go:
One other question - in that last photo you might be able to see some light rust spots on the painted surface. There's some on the passenger windshield pillar also. What's the best way to remove the rust spots without damaging the paint.
Jeff, there is also a mounting plug on the rear side pillars that many have used for the top part of the 3 point setup. Some like it better than mounting it on the rear rail. Not sure if that mounting point was there on the 66.
Man, talk about finicky. Just backed the choke back toward mid-line (took out some lean) and it started quite a bit better (first start for the day) but the initial idle was a little rougher. Thinking I may go with new plugs and a tune up checking the timing in the process to make sure all is in line.
Rust spots that have bled and stained paint might (emphasis on "might") come out with a light/gentle rubbbing of polishing compound.
I noticed in your pictures that you have some bubbles of rust developing under the paint in a few panels. I hate to be the conveyor of bad news, but...
...you need to get after that, and soon - and their is no quick fix. It will look worse before it looks better and it WILL require, at a minimum, touching up the paint once the rust is exposed, corrected, and then the repair blended. Sorry.
You might want to get the instructions from a good shop manual and go through the complete choke set-up procedure - set the choke plate/pull off and the other mechanical adjustments and then, once you know the mechanical settings are correct, fiddle with the choke thermostat. Once you know you have it set up correctly both you and the car will be much, much happier!
Yeah, having done quite a few years as an auto insurance adjuster and spending a lot of time in the body shops I know that rust isn't good. The small spots on the side panels by the wheel openings have not gone through to the underside. The tailgate I'm not sure about. I do know that the body work on the tailgate is horrible. The best option is to strip it, fix the rust and then repaint. Unfortunately, that's down the road. Now, if my son decides he eventually wants something else than I'll just buy the rig from him and address it.
I did notice the wheel wells both front and back were undercoated at some point in the past. They appear to be in pretty good shape.
Thank you for posting the pictures of your seatbelts. That helps out a lot.
Just took the Ranchero into town - I had forgotten what it's like to drive with a smile on your face. Even got a thumbs up from another driver. Couldn't help but think "I gotta get me one of these."
All cars built after Jan 1 1966 should have shoulder anchors built into the car.
Cars before this date will probably not have them.
Federal thing starting 1-1-66
My 66 Elky is a late car (July 66) so it has the anchors
On the GM cars the cowl tag will have a little hole punched in it, and that is to note the anchors are there. (ONLY on model year 66)
Not sure if Ford would have done something similar, but it would only apply to late 66 cars.
Kinda weird being even seat belts were not required before '68
May have been standard equipment, but could be deleted at buyers request.
I know the feeling! Every time I drive the Ranchero I get thumbs up and people asking me questions about it. It is cool .
Bryan and Havensole -
Thanks for the info on the seatbelts. I will have to take a look. I know there are some rubber plugs in the pillar but I always thought they were access holes for the Ranchero badge. I will do some research on that.
Ok, remember I'm a rookie at the fixing a car gig. Have always preferred drive instead.
The Ranchero is essentially parked while as my son "pays" for failing a class this past spring. There's some normal surface rust under the bed that now would be a good time to take care of and then rustproof. But, the steps are what escape me. What's the best option for removing the rust? I've thought about a wire wheel but I only have a smaller compressor and family budget will prevent me from a bigger one. If I was to go this route what's the tool called that connects to the compressor end. Once the rust is off what are the next steps are far as treating the metal and then rust proofing.
Thanks in advance and sorry about sounding like an idiot.
Nice 66... and thanks for the picture of the rear spring assembly... Shows me the piece I am looking for, for my 69. the under spring shock mounts. :thumbup:
or Pertronix kit that replaces the points setup. you wont have to remove the distributor.
So, after sitting essentially for 16 yrs we found most of the seals/gaskets leaking. Since I don't have all the tools to do it property we took the Ranchero to a mechanic in town. His proposal was to pull the motor, clean it all up and replace all the seals and gaskets.
The mechanic did say that the engine was in great shape and should run well for a lot of years. He dialed in the carb a little better and said he was impressed with how smooth the engine ran.
Here's my question - I got a voicemail yesterday from the shop stating the original timing chain is there and asking whether I wanted to have him change it out. What would be a general cost for this? My hunch is to say the motor only has 69k on it and is running fantastic so leave it alone. Besides this is my kids money and he's anxious to get it back. Thoughts?
It's very little effort after you have the front of the motor stripped (to replace those gaskets and the front crank seal), basically just the cost of the chain assembly, labor is maybe 15 minutes. I'd say, put in a roller chain instead of a stock chain. Check the Summitracing.com catalog for pricing options (~~$38)
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