Nice finds on the parts. I wasn't sure which block you had, so it's why I asked. But didn't someone make a kit that allowed for adding the second bolt set, and the skirt bolting, of course, for FEs? I thought I saw something in the Ford racing catalog two decades ago. As for stroking, unless you find a kit, it won't be worth doing, time- or money-wise, which is a bummer. But scoring 350 horses and a bit more on torque, on all you described, should be doable without having to go through the trans, drive line and rear to bolster them up. I'll be watching with great anticipation.
Hey, I've got a set of Diamond 41032 pistons (4.250 stroke .040 over) that were taken out at around 100 mile mark, C/R was too high for his iron heads, but would work with aluminum. $100 plus shipping if you can use them.
Andy : There are main caps and kits available to perform that operation. I don't see the hassle of performing the machine work on an old block or for this build being required. Would put the money towards a new block multiples available Iron and aluminum, such as Shelby, Bear Block Motors, Pond to name a few. Of course most of them are spotty on availability and fairly expensive. Phil: Damn good price! Wish I had looked earlier than this evening as that would have been a possibility. I'll hold for now but keep it in mind. Ordered a kit today that will hit 11.4 compression( Mahle pistons .030 overbore) with 72 cc heads. They said should be in for me in about 2 weeks. So then the requisite machine work and test fitting can happen to see what else we need to do, Deck the block for better quench? Have given the ok to start welding the wrecked aluminum head for re-machining and new seats in that one chamber. That will all lead to getting down to the shop on some weekends need to put heads on flow bench and see where they are at now. That will let me know where to start the opening up, bowls are a given to me then see how flows and do some more. So 444 ci here we come !! Now to find the right roller cam ( Hydraulic) everything in catalogs looks small. Thinking neighbor hood of 260ish @ .050. Should be fun then on the street.
That's the funny thing about cams for back then, they all looked small. Is there a company close to you that could do a custom grind from a blank?
Cams have changed a lot over the years. Personally I run split pattern cams almost all the time. Also for small blocks I like to be in the 230-240 degree range @ 50., usually make a nice street performance combo. Cam grinders are out there you just have to find them. The bigger problem is finding the blanks to grind as the supply just isn't there like it used to be.
This guy has a great reputation over at The Ford Muscle Cars forum: https://customfordcams.com/products
Redid the brace I made for headliner as I wanted it to blend in a little better. Hardware store spray bomb doesn't match up great but looks better than aluminum to me. Painted the black wind lace but it was still tacky 3 hours later so used some white wind lace instead . Put the side pieces in place used some double sided tape on the door side to hold and a big piece of magnet on backside to help hold in place. The magnet is 3" wide strip bought from Mcmaster rated at 50 lb force, doesn't seem that strong to me. Gives the interior a whole different look to me. Once I heat the headliner should smooth out much better.
Handy, I just went through your town yesterday and I did not see you anywhere in that Traffic, Damn for a Saturday it was bad........
Andy, The way I did it was to get the headliner up on the rods, note trim the "felt" back pretty good on rod, attach the rear "wires" to the rear rod. Check that material hangs out evenly at each door area. Then pull to the front window use some old wind lace to hold in position this is to dry fit everything. Next do same at doors and then it should have you set for a quick check at rear window. I taped paper up over glass and left it hang over stuff I didn't want glue on Before starting any of this. Also put any screws in place for visors , center of visors etc. Next time to start gluing stuff in place start at front window follow directions on glue for set up time, then work slow and steady front window, try to keep smooth and put wind lace on to help hold it in place. Then one door area at time again pull and stretch headliner to keep smooth and put wind lace on. Rear window was hardest to get pulled and have glue hold and reason I used a piece of "Z" bar to hold in place. Then a good sharp razor blade to cut the excess headliner material. Some was done lying on back across the seats some standing up. I had car up on stands the whole way around just to be more comfortable. Not that bad to do just takes patience(time) and clean hands. Like anything else give it a try worse you can do is mess it up, even pro's mess them up occasionally.
No worries. Won't take it personal, I try to give some help when/where I can sometimes just doesn't translate well.
Thanks Pony. Just got the metal for making subframe connectors, now to find the time to do them. Still ordering parts and waiting for stuff to come in for engine build. Have to make some time to head for my buddy's shop in MD sometime. At least I-95 should be back to being somewhat useful, the "bridge" out about 2 exits below me.
Andy it didn't bother me much, I just didn't go south into philly or farther! Temporary fix is in now so it has opened back up. So now I will be able to head for Maryland and my buddy's shop keep this build moving. Talked to him on phone today and he was telling me about a neat ford project about 528 cid and twin turbo chassis at chassis shop now.
Andy I didn't ask he said BBF. So going with that would guess Lima 4.150" stroke and 4.500" bore. Not sure when I will get to check it out but will find out more then.
Was going to go up to my cabin tomorrow but got a call, the block is punched. So tomorrow I head down to the shop with parts so assembly can start, test fit all parts first. Then see what to modify or not. Of course need to get a cam ordered, heads fixed up and waiting on rockers ( back ordered). And then figure pushrod length out and get them made. Buddy asked if I had a bellhousing and flywheel for an Fe engine. Told him no I don't as it's an automatic. Said to keep my eye out for them as he would like to put this on the Dyno when ready.
