Now I understand why you need hub centric rings . I suppose it could be the drum shifting and lopsided then kinda centering its self again does the bearing fit snug in the tube? Do the drums fit kinda close to snug on the studs? If so that may rule out off center drum wobble did you try and swap tires and wheels front to back? Another thought is : there may be water , another liquid or a foreign object (believe me) in there which may account for the shake I've found shop rags, water and old bits of valve stems Just trying to help
I'm back! And the Beast is running! And not terribly, either! The hub centric rings, and possibly adjusting my pinion angle, seem to have taken care of the vibration. Also found that the carb was leaking out of the timed vacuum port into the venturi due to the metering block that I have using 4 emulsion holes, making it go down to where the timed vacuum port would go. Fixed that by plugging the port in the main body. And I found a plug in the accelerator pump squirter hole. No idea why that was there. Anyways, drove it to a friend's house this weekend and it did great! Needs some more carb tuning, working gauges, and I plan on swapping over a bunch of my Mustang's old valvetrain, mostly the springs. E7 valve springs don't seem to be good for much over 5000 rpm. And the aluminum valve covers that I had on the Mustang should fit great.
Nice! Hey, I'm heading back up to Washington next month, 4th-18th, perhaps we can get together for an M&G? I'll be staying at family's places during the time I'm up there.
Lemme know when you'll be free, I'll be there late the 4th, and I'm hoping to fit in a few days over in Idaho between the 10th and 16th.
I'll be camping next weekend, and my weeknights are generally pretty full, but I might have the 17th available.
I also finally discovered what metering block and fuel bowl setup my double-pumper has. It's this setup from Gearhead Enterprises, and the entire thing, float bowls, metering blocks, and all, costs less than a quality single billet metering block. I got really curious when I fixed the issue of the emulsion well bleeding into the timed vacuum port, and after I had noticed a couple of the sight glasses were leaking so that I could source some replacement stuff. And then when I tried to set the float level and the secondary adjuster just absolutely sprayed fuel everywhere and would hardly seal without lots of finicking. They also sell a whole carburetor, a 750 double pumper, for $210. I can't imagine that it's actually any good.
I'll try to keep the 17th open, if it can happen, I'll send you my phone number by PM here. Here's to hoping you can iron out your carb problems.
Finally hooked up the manual choke. Man, that sure makes it easier to start! Why haven't I done this sooner? Still gotta find out why the gas gauge doesn't work. And lately I've been contemplating replacing the almost rusted out tailgate with a tubular tailgate, as well as adding a "ladder rack" so I can have more easily accessible accessories, like a high-lift jack, shovel, tool boxes, maybe a water jug, and have a place to possibly pitch a tent on top. We'll see how that all goes, I guess.
Dammit! I was supposed to meet up with you! Unfortunately, I'm out in Gold Bar, helping my nephew get his Grand Marquis running. It runs, but the heater coolant pipe has a hole, which explains how he blew the old head gasket.
It's all good, I've been real busy lately. Haven't had much time to tinker, but I do need to figure out why my gas gauge always reads on E. Suspecting the sender is jammed, or the replacement float is no good.
Does the needle move at all when the key's turned on? Even if the tank's bone dry, there should be just a bit of movement. Also, if there's zero movement, that can be an indication of an open circuit between the sender and gauge. So check that first, before removing the in-tank unit.
It does move a bit. I know the needle goes below E, but with the Stewart Warner stuff, it kinda just rests wherever it feels like, which I think is against the needle stop well past E for the gas gauge, at least. And it worked in the past, when I replaced the float. I just don't think the float would spring a leak that quickly, but who knows with all the gunk that's in the tank.
I have gotten new floats both made of brass and plastic that didn't survive for a full week. Treat them really gentle as you put them on the sender arm.
One of my buddies recommended pea gravel and diesel, capping and plugging the tank and swirling it all around for a while to get all the varnish knocked out. Worth a shot when I have an evening to spare. And good advice. I'm fairly certain that it's a float problem. If that's the problem, I'm tempted to just coat it in epoxy to keep it from springing a leak.
Ha, my second boss Randy, taught me a trick that works for both gas tank and carb floats, as gasoline doesn't dissolve it: older nail polish. He'd rescued brass and Nitrophyll floats with older polish formulas. Just let them cure overnight, or hit it for a few minutes with a heat gun at a foot's distance, sealed up.
Well that explains things. Was not expecting to have so many cracks! And WHY did it crack like that? It's like it was compressed severely, or something.
Pulled the gas tank out to give it a clean. All I can say is ew. Not even sure it's worth cleaning when a new tank is $170.
