disk brake conversion

Glad to see it went well for you. What pads did you use? I did the Scarebird on my '70 and I am not quite satisfied with the result. What diameter rotors did your kit call for?

 

Yes, it is a 3/4 ton.

 

I didn't measure the rotors, but they are at least 11". I will measure next time a wheel is off.
I used the Duralast semi metallic pads.
My personal experience with manual disc brakes has been, until this install, that they are not much of an improvement over properly setup manual drum brakes. The main thing that drove this particular project was the lack of availability of front brake hardware for the 3/4 ton as it is different than what was used on any other vehicle and the parts have run out.
I had close, but not exact springs on the self adjusters and had to regularly manually adjust.

 

Thanks for the info. I used WAGNER MX215 ThermoQuiet OE Semi-Metallic pads on
10.25" rotors on mine. I can not get these brakes to lock up no matter what. Not that I want to skid all over the place, but it feels like I am missing some clamping force somehow. Sorry about the threadjack.

 

No problem. I haven't tried to lock the brakes as I am letting the pads set it. I am sure they will though.
Look closely at your rotors they may be glazed due to not bedding the pads correctly when first installed. It is critical with a new rotor and pads that the rotors not get too hot until the pads are bedded or you will get glazing. If the surface is reflective, it is glazed.
You can remove the glaze with an abrasive biscuit on a drill, you just have to scuff them until no longer reflective, Once a dull finish is achieved put the rotor back on, properly bed the pads to the rotor and you are good to go.
I know I am being presumptive, but about 99% of the time the symptoms you have indicate glazed rotors.

 

Sounds easy enough. If it is glazing, it is the worst case of it I have ever had. These brakes just don't work like they should. I'll give it a try and report back. Thanks.

 

Glazed brakes can be near worthless. Especially if it is on all 4 wheels (drums can become glazed also). I have seen situations where the pads were also glazed, but I haven't seen metallic pads that were glazed. If the pads are glazed I would just toss them.
Some drum/disc setups can also suffer from a condition where the rear brakes never come on because there is insufficient pedal movement during braking. Adding a residual pressure valve to the rear brakes can solve that issue, a VERY light coat of spray paint on the rear shoes will tell you if they are engaging. If a regular low speed stop leaves the paint speckles intact you either have a self adjuster issue or need a residual pressure valve.
That won't affect your ability to lock up the brakes though, just braking effort.

 

I had a very quick look at my rotors yesterday (thru the holes in my rims). I am used to the braking surface of the rotors being pretty clean and smooth. My rotors were anything
but smooth. It is hard to describe but the surface looked "grainy". What I am inclined to do is put a fresh cut on the rotors and find a better grade of pad and try again. Wondering if the pads I used were too soft or cheapo. Do you think there is any benefit to using a ceramic pad?

 

I use ceramics on cars with cheap rotors as they have to be replaced every brake job anyway and on light cars they last an exceptionally long time.
If by 'grainy' you mean a lot of what kind of look like cracks or trails but obviously aren't, that is severe glazing. If so, verify that the rotors are true before deglazing them, and if the depressed areas are deep enough to catch your fingernail they will have to be turned even if still true.

 

My son and I did some more research and found the following....Scarebird (in my case) combines different rotors and calipers that work with their brackets. This I knew. My kit uses Toyota Previa discs and Chevy Celebrity calipers. Seems the pad of choice for the Previa is either organic or ceramic, not so much semi-metallic. We have ordered fresh rotors and some premium ceramic pads and we'll see if this combo works any better.
I will post up results. Fingers crossed.

 

Good luck. Make sure you have a proper surface on the rotors though before you bed the new pads.

 

I have the Scarebird conversion on my '62...seems to stop pretty well albeit small 10" rotors.

 

THIS helped me help a friend solve a similar issue with his '72 Ford F250 CC. He converted a 2WD 4-wheel drum setup to 4WD disc/drum, but couldn't figure out why the rears weren't engaging. I didn't know he hadn't installed a prop valve (which, IIRC, includes the residual pressure feature), and when I asked why, he said everyone else he asked had said he didn't need one. *forehead slap* But reading this passage you posted, it became clear his problem was as you described. Uggghhhh. If there's a next time I'll remember to ask.

 

Here is the engine the brakes have to stop.

 

Can't tell from looking--what's the displacement? And is that an aftermarket dizzy? Is it points or elex?

 

That's Carl's old engine, all right.
Doesn't look anything like it did when I got it though.
Bored it 30 over, cleaned up the crank, and connecting rods. Everything else is new.
So, it's a 306 with flat top pistons, AFR heads, the ignition is all MSD; 6AL, distributor, and coil. The cam is a Lunati hydraulic roller.

 

Cool. So now it's a VANPYL.

 

Shucks, the van didn't even send the Pyl a fathers day card.
Guess he wasn't raised right.