Engine Build Plan

These toys can be dangerous, that is a fact. Especially when not going in a straight line.
But horsepower approaches being a narcotic. The attention to circumstances and restraint required coupled with the sound and feel create anything but a boring driving experience.
When you drive a normal car afterward it feels like you took a tranquilizer.

 

Restraint will not be an issue. I am a minister in a very small town and have to be careful with everything I do, driving is no different, you will never even see me pass someone legally (unless they are in a tractor) because of the bad mouthing that may come from it. I am already on thin ice with a lot of people because I am a 27 year old minister, it hasn't been an issue with our church but is questioned by others.

 

The hardest part is not lighting up the rear tires when a ricer tries to pass you on the highway.

 

The price of tires is enough to keep me under control as far as that goes.

 

I probably should have asked this before now but what is the best way to transport an engine. I have read online about old tires, cradles, and wood blocks. Would it be possible to use my engine stand and just tie it down or since it's a short block can I just set it in the bed?

 

Even if it's an unrebuilt short block, you don't want it banging around. I simply use 1 old tire and two 4X4 blocks with a couple cheap ratchet tie-downs. And when I hauled the 351W and C6 from a van I parted out a few years ago, I used 2 blocks under the engine mounts and four cheap ratchet tie-downs. I used to have pics of it from when I put it up for sale, but they were lost when my desktop computer bit the dust.

 

I have a few ratchet straps so that's not a problem, I will swing by a tire shop and pick up a couple of used tires Tuesday. I can't wait to get into this engine, the more I hear, the more I want to start. I need to either get a nice fan in the shop or plan on waiting until the fall.

 

I think HF has 'cyclone' stand fans on sale. You'll need to check their website to confirm.

 

I was able to pick up the short block yesterday and was pleasantly surprised when I pulled up to the address and it was a nut and bolt restoration shop, there was a great looking 1963 Galaxie 500 right out front. I ended up getting a lot more then I could have hoped for when I picked it up as well. It was sold to me as a rebuildable short block but it included everything but the heads; intake to oil pan.

After picking it up I had a 5 hour drive ahead of me which turned out to be a very stressful drive between watching the load and dealing with a 2 year old and everything that comes with her. I checked the engine on multiple occasions and never had any issues with the way it was strapped down. I guess the next step will be getting it unloaded and into the shed, where I will be able to get it stripped down and then taken to a machine shop to check for cracks and get all of their stuff done.

 

Also here is a pic of the heads I picked up as well.

 

I will check as soon as I get an opportunity to on the VINs. As for the red goop I couldn't tell you for sure, I know I am going to have to do a little honing to remove the cylinders and this was taking up space at his shop for a while. I guess I will find out more once I get it all taken apart and inspected.

 

Here is the one on the transmission, I will have to work a little harder to get the one off of the engine because of the junk. I will try to look up what this number represents later.

 

So I wonder if it's a 460. When I picked it up he said he knew he had told me it was a 429 but the more he thought about it the more he wondered if it was a 460. Just another surprise I get to look forward too.

 

Those don't look like stock pistons.
If the engine can be turned, rotate one of the pistons down to the bottom and measure the stroke. That will determine 429 or 460

 

I finally read this post, sorry to be late to the party. Using the original pistons will yield around 10-10.5-1 static CR. BTW, those pistons in the block are factory type/style pre-smog 429 pistons, one of the reasons for the 10.5 CR. If you replace/change to a 460 crank and pistons you will easily gain 41 cubic inches. Using the C9VE heads (75-76cc) and C9VE block(10.30" deck height) with "rebuilder" type 460 22cc dish pistons with a compression height of 1.752" will still yield a pump gas friendly static CR of 9.34-1 (this is based on stock bore, an increase in bore will increase CR). Lots of great info on 460Ford.com. X2 on what Hillbilly said above^^^. Good luck on your build. Todd

 

Thanks for all of the info. I joined 460ford.com just so I could read all of the threads of info and am enjoying all of the info there. Also I cleaned up where the number should have been on the block and haven't been able to locate it yet but I will keep looking.