I'm putting a new cam into the 302 in my 72 Gran Torino. The motor has unknown heads, a 2bbl carb, and stock exhaust. Here is the cam I'm getting: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=EDL-7122&autoview=sku From what I keep hearing over at FM, this is too much cam for what I've got right now (C4, 8" w/3.55 gear). I plan to upgrade my exhaust next with long tube headers and X pipe setup with cut outs. After that my brother has a set of heavily modified GT40P heads with a port matched Edlebrock RPM intake and Speed Demon 650 DP (also heavily modified) that he wants to put in my car. Then I want to add a 2000 stall converter to the mix. The top end alone is enough to get his 84 Bronco sideways. I'm just hoping that I'm not going to have too much trouble with just the cam swap, please any help would be greatly appreciated.
All right, first off, how many miles are on the motor? The reason why I ask this is that if it is over say 60,000 or 80,000 miles, it is a risk to put brand new top end parts in with the old bottom end parts, becasue it is more prone to failure, becasue of the mismatch between the new and old parts. I learned this with my cleveland before the entire engine rebuild, as the cam failed as what I think was a mismatch between the parts, and also shot cam bearings. It was crazy the amount of up and down side to side play the cam had when I tore my motor down. As a result of this, I ended up loosing $300 in the parts that I put into the top end. Also to let you know, when I did this, my motor had to have had 160000 miles on it, and this was a virgin motor. Also that cam that you picked out should be all right, also let me ask you what comp ratio are you running, because with bigger cams, you have to put that into consideration. I would suggest calling the manufacturer and talking it over with them, and seeing if that cam is ok for your setup. Also with those gt40 p heads, you should be running 9:5:1 or around 10:?? comp ratio, but don't quote me on this as I do not know much about the Windsor heads. As to putting everything in, it is fairly simple, just take your time, and follow all the torque specs that are in the shop repair manuals if you have them. Have fun, and hope it all works out well for you, modifying motors could be fun and rewarding if done right, don't make the pricey mistake I made at first. Regards Dave
The motor is pretty fresh, probably about 15k miles if that. My car was pulled out of a scrap yard by a mechanic and put back together (origional motor was a 351C). The CR on my brothers motor right now is 10.25:1 and thats with the origional bottom end (with A LOT of miles too).
It sounds like by what you just said, that you are good to go. That cam seems like it would suit you well, and that motor should be pretty nice with that setup. Good luck, and keep us updated. Dave
Pulled the motor apart today and the cam was in worse shape that I'd thought. The lobes were wiped, two of which were REALY bad, and only had 1 collapsed lifter. I'm counting the days till the new parts get here, still need to get some ZDDP additive though.
I'll say it again, folks better take note of what they use for lube in their engines, it's not the same as it was... Sorry to hear what you found, take all precautions in the next cam break-in... Good luck...
I belive the cam faliure to be a result of the previous owners negligence, or inferior parts. Either way this is the farthest that I've had THIS motor apart and I'll be glad when it's back together again. For breakin I'll be using Rotella 15w40 and a bottle of ZDDP, now I'm not sure if I should rev it in netural for breakin or if I should drive around as I still have yet to install my GT cluster and hook up the Tach. Wish I could have gotten a Hyd. roller as tthey dont require breakin procedures.
Dude, the proper/correct way to break in a new non roller cam is to ... First get some some break-in lube from crane or compcams, make a cocktail of oil/lube and prelube alot, and when it starts run it up to 2k for 20 mins, vary it a couple hundred during the 20 mins, if not another wasted cam...
I'll have to check with my local speed shop and see if they happen to have any in stock along with picking up the ZDDP. I've never installed a cam before so I want the first time to go off without a hitch. Dry cam=bad times
Well, the parts are here and the cam came with assembly lube. Tomorrow is the big day so wish me luck!
You could fyi also get it at summit racing, they sell crane cam's brand of this zddp additive. You should also run rotalla t deasel oil for the cam break in, as that also has a high level of zdp. CJ also in the past posted a list of all good oils with a good level of zddp. Have fun and take your time, it pays off doing so. Dave
I picked up 2 jugs of rotella 15w40 Diesel oil, 2 filters, 1 bottle of Crane cams break in additive and an extra tube of assembly lube just in case what came with the cam isn't enough. Tomorrow I'll also get the necessary gaskets and some new valve guide seals. Cant wait to hear it rune once again, I also got a noisy dual idler gear drive to handle the timing
While I was in there I checked the casting numbers on my heads, it is D8OE. If anyone has any info on them that would be very helpful. Thanks!
Everything has been put back together, timing is set at 10*, and the silicone is drying. Tomorrow or saturday will be breakin day! Does anyone have the link to the tech article here on swaping the basic gauge cluster for the ralley cluster? I want to hook up the tach in the ralley set before I begin the breakin so that I can keep an eye on the RPMs.
Thanks 72GTVA! Well everything is back together and running! I still need to dial in the timing but that shouldnt take much. I also replaced the timing chain with a noisy dual idler gear drive, I didn't expect it to be THAT noisy. All told I am very happy with the results.
So who did you end up getting the geardrive from, e bay? It is a good sound, as I run one in the cleveland.
I got it from summit and it was a pretty decent price too. I still need to tune in the timing and the carb.
