I got a price on a 400 short block of $1,100 - that includes new pistons (.030 over), all new bearings, new timing chain/gears - all assembled and can be picked-up without shipping costs. Is that a good deal? The business selling is the same place that rebuilt my heads - and I was satisfied. What do you guys think? Could I get a better price considering it is recently rebuilt?
Could I get a better price considering it is recently rebuilt? ++++++++++++ Would you believe $425, you pick it up in Compton? Think I recommended United Engine to you before? I've bought three long blocks from them, very satisfied. They'll give you a 30k miles - 12month warranty on it, too. http://www.unitedengine.net/Merchan...ode=UE&Product_Code=SBFO190&Category_Code=SB5
I had the heads rebuilt - all new valves and guides, thinking that would cure the oil burning, but alas. The short block is still unassembled in the shop, but all parts are machined (it does have the cam bearings already in it). It is in plastic - the guy seems honest and I liked the work he did on the heads - but is $1,100 the right price or could I do better?
are you getting new pistons ,new rod bolts, reconditioned rods , line hone ,etc? I think you can do better
There are plenty of places in Southern California that rebuild stock short blocks for half of what you are stating. Unless you are having upgrades, that price sounds too high to me. I bought a stock rebuilt 351C long block off of ebay last year from United for under $500. Pick up a copy of the Recycler, many of the engine building businesses in Southern California advertise in it and in many cases show prices in the ads. Last time I looked 351C and 351M/400 long blocks were selling for $700-$800 with a good core. If you did not have a core and the quote you received was for the rebuild and install it would reasonable.
House of Engines 575 SE End Ave Pomona, CA 91766 (909) 620-7123 United's quote for a 351M and 400 short block is $425 http://www.unitedengine.net/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=UE&Category_Code=SB5
Not looking for a 351M/400 Mcmahst has a 1973 - that is a 400 without an "M" in it. Only a couple of years for that one before it was replaced by the 'M' variants. Recalculation of the prices on that fact might be in order.
Understood - and hopefully that builder knows that there is a difference between a 400 and an 'M400'.
As I understand it there is no 400M The M was a designation for the 351 that is a de-stroked 400 that replaced the 351C starting in the 1975 model year. The 351 version being the only one with the M designation. United will build it to the specs. of the year that the buyer request.
Yes there is a warranty, I would have to pull out the paperwork from United to give the exact terms but I recall it being either 6 months or 1 year.
It was 12 months and/or 30k miles on those I bought from United. They agreed to contract with a local mechanic if I had any problems. The long blocks I've bought from them came with a new Melling oil pump and shaft, and a complete gasket set including the turkey pan.
I believe trikar is right 351M/400 with the exception of the 400 block with both bell housing bolt patterns.
HP Books used to have a manual on rebuilding Ford small-blocks 221-400, and I think it was by Tom Monroe. I remember there being a problem noted with some 400 blocks cracking in the lifter valley area, I forget which ones. Does anybody know if the early blocks the ones without the 'web' cast into the block near the distributor hole? And which ones have the dual bolt pattern? JD
rancheromeister...And which ones have the dual bolt pattern? ++++++++++++++++++ 1973 400 dual bellhousing and motor mount bosses -------- I have used short blocks from united and some other production engine builders in the LA area but I would NEVER buy a long block from a production engine shop. Cylinder heads from production builders are nothing but problems.
Maybe I'm asking the wrong question? Before I decide anything, I think I'll ask the guy what he would charge me to rebuild my original motor. I was luck enough to purchase the vehicle from the original owner and he has been helpful in getting the car to run. So, I know it is the original block and maybe it would be best, if it is rebuildable, to get a quote on rebuilding the original? What do you guys think?
I like matching numbers where possible so I would definitely look into getting your original engine rebuilt. And if you felt like you wanted to learn more about the engine you could do the disassembly yourself, have the machine work done and rebuild/reassemble the engine yourself. Doing that, and a little research into available parts, and some decisions about how much power you want it to develop you have a lot of potential in getting it just how you want. JMHO.
