Do some research and you can figure out what's valuable. So far all I've seen from you are a lot of dumb questions because you're too lazy to do your own research. I'd like to help, but I need some assistance from your side as well.
I am trying not to stand up for no one, but there are no dumb questions, and I bet in time he will be able to be useful. Also I think that he is only a kid. Later Dave [ November 16, 2007, 11:19 PM: Message edited by: *RD* ]
I agree RD, no such thing as a dumb question, only dumb answers Maybe the kid doesn't know where to start his research, I don't fault him for asking first. BTW Josh, what condition are the headers you're pulling in, I might be interested.
Take a look at what cars are there, and then go to ebay motors and look up the parts that are for sale for those cars and that should give you a good idea of the value of the parts. Don't be steeling the parts, they are not worth going to jail over.
sorry if some of my questions are dumb but im sixteen and this my first car and i really didnt expect there to be so much repair when i bought it again sorry but you all really know your stuff and are a big help
oh and 78Squire400M the old headers dont look to bad just some rust on them they could probably use a good sandblasting but ill let you know once i get em off
My apologies, Josh. "Dumb" was a bad choice of words. Just caught me at the wrong moment. The others are right. There are no dumb questions, so ask away. Somehow I got the impression you were older and would know more about cars. I'm going to go stand in the corner now.
What 2 seater said. You need to set priorities. Safety first; brakes, suspension and tires. I've seen you've posted about needing a lot of things. Yeah, new headers and exhaust would be nice. And let's not forget that new intake and 750 double pumper. DON'T GO THERE! In all my years as an auto tech I've seen guys get a car and immediately bolt a huge carb on. Major waste of money, performance and gas. So, let's go back to square one. Give us a vin number so we'll know just what you have. Then give us a list of what you think you need. We'll work with you so you'll get your Chero ready at the least possible cost.
From what I've seen he has a 351M sitting under his hood. While not the most economical motor to ever hit the streets sometimes you've just gotta work with what you've got. At any rate 351M motors are pretty hard to kill unless you REALLY work at it. If it runs fine right now I'd look at your brakes, lights, and suspenion components as well as the all important seat belts. You'd also be surprised what you can do with a can or two of bondo and some determination.
i will be sure to post my vin number tommorrow but i do have a 351m in it while there are some minor engine things, the majority of the work is body, which i am having the most trouble figuring out where to start, the bed has major rust all around the edges of it making it possible to see in the cab from outside, as well as having my floor pans rusted through on at least the passenger side. i need to bleed the brake lines, and my current air shocks are shot also i recently noticed that my steering wheel turns before the tires, what that means, i do not know again thanks for all the help
Sounds like you're looking at some major sheet metal replacement. Can't say without some research, but I'd guess floor panels are available to be welded in. Bed work is going to have to be custom. Maybe you can find someone in your area to help. Too bad you're not out here. Our club has a bead roller and welders for that kind of work. Bleeding brakes? Why? Got a leak. Pull the wheels and look. Pull back the boots on the rear cylinders. If you see fluid, replace them. Air Shox? If you don't really need them, just get a pair of descent shox. I recently got a pair of Monroe Sensatracs at Napa for $60. Steering play? Check the rag joint at the bottom of the steering column. Also check for play in all the under chassis components; tie rod ends, idler arm, drag link, steering box. [ November 18, 2007, 07:24 PM: Message edited by: Smile_n_Jax ]
if only i were in california, there are no ranchero's out here but my friend did just buy a 77 ranchero gt i did find floor pans at U&I auto parts the floor pans were like $250 or so but shipping was like $200 so i decided to hold off till i got a job i do have one now, though i work at dollar tree. so within a little time i will get them but how do i pull back the boots on the rear cylinder? also my bleeder screws are worn down and are un-turnable my air shocks are not bad but one of my air lines is shot, so i have already bought some and am going to replace them, any thing i should know before attempting this? also what am i looking for in the rag joint, how can i tell if its bad? and if it is what is the process in replacing it? thanks guys,
well...Id say do like we all did as youngins..pound out some sheet metal & make your own patches. (heck I still do) as far as the rest of it, work on making it a safe driver first. take some vise grips twist out the old bleeders& replace those, or buy new complete wheel cylinders. they are pretty cheap.
With the drums off, peel back the rubber boots on the ends of the cylinders. If you see fluid, rebuild/replace. Replace the air shock lines, pump 'em up to 40psi, then monitor them with a tire gauge. As with all air shocks, they will leak down, but it should take some time. And don't overpressurize, you'll blow the bags. I run mine at 40psi, 50psi when towing the boat. I know mine have bled down too far when I back out of the driveway and the hitch scrapes. What Tim said. You can make your own floor panels. Get some heavy gauge sheet metal, cut and weld. May not be pretty, but with carpet laid down who's to know? To check the rag joint, leave the truck on the ground, have someone rock the steering wheel back and forth til the wheels move. Look for flexing at the rag joint. It's hidden under the brake booster. Next, jack the truck up and do the same thing looking for play in steering parts. Grab things by hand and try to move them, like the idler arm. Get a big pair of channel locks and squeeze the tie rod ends. They shouldn't move. Put a long bar under the tires and jack them up and down, looking for play in ball joints, control arms, etc. Have fun!
suggestion on those shocks. One reason many like air shocks is because they don't want to replace rear springs that are weak. This is a bad move! the shock mounts even tho they are heavy duty on these cars they are still not designed to carry ALL the cars weight. You can buy a nice set of cargo coil springs for your ranchero for around $100 a pr. Then a decent pair of gas shocks and you have fixed it up the right way. I know you are hard up for cash right now, But something to think about once you are on your feet. the rear springs on the 72-79 rancheros are very easy to change too.
well i checked my brake cylinders and i did see fluid when i pulled back the boots, so i do need to replace them,checking napa as well as advance auto parts but how do i tell what size i need i keep seeing all these different bore sizes like one inch and also ones like 15/16"
I searched Napa online for a '78 Ranchero and came up with only one size, 1", but that doesn't necessarily mean it's right. To be positive, you'll need to take a cylinder apart and check the inside of the cup. That will give you the size. A tip to installing the new cylinders. Start the line into the cylinder first with your fingers. Then bolt the cylinder to the backing plate. Much easier that way.
