Starter noise from new starter: 1972 351C

My C6?

C6AP-7D(?)C(?)27-C. Its to hard to make out the D and C, maybe an O.

 

Trans ID tag

Metal tag found on the passenger side, bolted:

PEA C C
7E2 2 2

The second image is the driver side, part of the case cast itself:
C5AP-7006(?)

11 bolts in trans pan = C4 or C5, uniformly rectangular.

Door label shows original was "W". I'm absolutely sure this is not the original trans because its way too clean and has been spray painted in some areas.

Update: PEA-CC C4 300 6 1976 F100 — 8 tooth speedo. drive gear

 

C5 and the starter mystery

I'm finding some mixed opinons across the Ford world on the C5.

My code, C5AP should place it in the 1973-83 range. Mine doesn't have that big hump in the middle of the trans pan that the later C5s seem to have.

Here's a list of "normal" applications:
F100.
Early 80's 4WD Rangers w/V6s. 1973-81
F250. 1982-83
Fairmont. 1983-86
LTD.1977-78 LTD II. 1976
Maverick.1982-86
Mustang. 1972-77 E series.

Comments from many sources across the WWW say to avoid the later C5 from the 80s. If the same trans can handle an F-250 that's pretty sturdy?

Is the C5 conflicting with my 351C compatible starter? Moving the starter towards the noise of the car with the shim made the screeching worse, effectively making the starter worthless. Installed normally it works most of the time with limited screeching. Flywheel teeth pattern incorrect or the starter drive not disengaging from flywheel after engine start?

I may break down and just tow it to a mechanical shop...what do you all think?

 

Starter Sceaming Fixed! Thank you all!

I have a 3rd new one, a napa part with reassurances for return if it doesn't fit or if it screams. Trying tonight. Anxious to get home....

Next Day--->

So I took the Napa starter and noticed immediate differences in the quality of the flange cast casing vs. the Autolite; the bolt holes were an additional 1/16" larger on center, the flange plate itself was twice as thick and the seat was maybe another .125" taller. The overall diameter was 4.03" as the opposing 4.09375" AND the half-dome piece that protects the starter gear/shaft was taller/longer than the Autolite brand. Never again will I buy Autolite products.

The Napa part nearly put itself in and I was able to avoid the wrench for all except the last few turns of the bolts. I was done in 10 minutes and she was cranking successfully without failure and without problem. My battery was 15% drained and the car couldn't start, even with help from my truck although it nearly started several times. Charging battery with more testing over the weekend along with some more gas, spark plug checks, etc.

The best part of it all, is that I took the second Autolite to another Kragen branch, explained to the ladies the screaming problems, the shim, etc and it got busy in the store and they just refunded my full amount! Ha!

The worst part about the whole experience was the apathy at the original Kragen; they made me call customer service (in their parking lot on a cell) about my OE starter and that "they go into a big pile and there's now to track it once they leave". Liars.

They guy on the phone said they were full of it and it was up to them to get the tracking and the trailer number and are in fact, required to provide those. Then I got the manager-only-can-do-it runaround. I supervise all shipping in and out at work and we keep a binder of all daily shipments with tracking numbers, costs, part numbers, everything aside from our account receivable/payable department. Lazy and worthless those counter guys.

I left there quite upset only to install the Napa part afterward, much to my delight. Kragen lost a customer, even through Parts-America, forever.

Lesson learned: don't replace any OE part if it can be repaired.

Thanks to all for all of the great suggestions.

 

glad to hear its gotten better..hope to hear that its running soon!

 

A happy ending to a bad start--er.

 

GROAN!